The Traveling American

View Original

Hindu Temples - Kanchipuram, India

What is it - The province of Tamil Nadu in Southeast India has a distinctive culture and is filled with temples. The dominant city in this region is the coastal capital of Chennai which has the distinction of being the fourth largest city in India and the base for large automobile manufacturing and entertainment industries. Kanchipuram is a respected small city of approximately 150,000 people and is located about 50 miles southwest of Chennai.

The people of Kanchipuram generally retained their independence from the Mughal dynasties from northern India for most of the past millennium. Instead the region was ruled by various Hindu kingdoms and briefly by the Golconda sultanate. The city of Kanchipuram became the capital of the Pallavas dynasty beginning in the 6th century, and in subsequent centuries the Cholas and the Pandya dynasties used it as a commercial center. Finally, the Vijayanagar kingdom, which was based in the beautiful and now ruined city of Hampi to the northwest, ruled there and built many new buildings from 1361 until their kingdom collapsed in 1645. Nevertheless, Kanchipuram continued to play an important role in Indian society and culture because of the location of numerous Hindu temples and shrines throughout the city. Approximately 50 of them are still in use for local worshipers and pilgrims from throughout India who come there to enjoy the magnificence of the shrines, the stone carvings and imagery of the temples, and the many extraordinary festivals held in commemoration of important religious holidays there.

Kanchipuram is recognized as one of seven sacred cities in the Hindu religion. It is useful for a visitor seeking to fully appreciate the images and significance of the temples to learn a few basics about it before going. Without meaning to oversimplify or misconstrue important tenets of Hinduism, the religion focuses on a holy trinity of Gods and their manifestations. These are Brahma, the creator of the universe; Vishnu, the preserver of the universe; and Shiva, the destroyer and recreator of things. In addition, Hindu mythology uses some well-known epic poems and stories to provide divine guidance to people. Kanchipuram is unusual because there are numerous temples dedicated to both Vishnu and Sheva, and their affiliated deities. 

There are many sites worth visiting in the city but here are three places to start if taking a day trip there: 

Ekambareshvar Temple

The Ekambareshvar Temple is interesting since it is one of the largest temples in the region with numerous shrines within the complex. It features a gatehouse tower which stands almost 200 feet high and contains many sculptures. Originally built in the 6th century, the complex and the tower were reconstructed by a Vijayanagar emperor in 1509. It has numerous long corridors containing various shrines and prayer spots for priests and worshipers. Most of the temple is open to the public except for a few areas restricted to Hindu practitioners. One important feature of this temple visited by thousands of people each week is an ancient mango tree dedicated to Shiva which is reputed to be over 3,000 years old, produces four different types of mangos, and is associated with several legends involving manifestations of the Gods. 

Varadaraja Perumal Temple

Another large temple complex is the Varadaraja Perumal Temple which is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and considered one of the most holy sites in India. Visited by many revered religious authorities and political rulers over the years, this temple has inscriptions from numerous kings who governed South India during its history. It contains a huge hall supported by dozens of pillars all dedicated to various gods. Another distinctive feature is the large, gilded water tank in the middle of one of the courtyards where priests and pious followers may cleanse themselves. These water tanks also historically perform an important civic function by providing a place to store the monsoon waters for later use by temple inhabitants and the community during the dry season.

Kailisanatha Temple

The Kailisanatha temple is located just outside of town. It is perhaps the most majestic of the group even though it is surrounded by a park and used mostly now as a monument and tourist attraction. It contains elaboratively carved pillars with 58 different carvings of Shiva and dates to the 8th century. Each one symbolizes various aspects of life or death.

Interesting Facts - In addition to the religious sites in town, Kanchipuram is also famous for its silk industry. Kanchipuram silks are considered top of the line for saris and dresses throughout India by wedding parties and fashion houses.  Ever since the 1800s, city craftsmen have used special weaving techniques and dyes on their products and all wares are offered to the gods at a temple or shrine before being sold

How to Get Here - There is no airport in Kanchipuram so the best way to get here is to fly into Chennai and then arrange a driver or taxi from the city. The trip along the NH 32 can take up to 2 hours depending on traffic.

When to Go - It is best to avoid Kanchipuram during the summer months because the temperature is almost always above 95 degrees and the monsoon can bring significant rain from August into November. The rest of the year is quite pleasant in the area even during the winter months when the daytime temperature rarely goes below 70 degrees. 

Cost - A day trip with guide or driver to Kanchipuram from Chennai will usually cost between $60 and $150 per person or per small car depending on the size of your group and the length of the tour. Some tours try to combine the temples of Kanchipuram and  a visit to the silk shops there with a tour of the magnificent beachfront ruins at Mamallapuram, but this makes for a long and hectic day and does not do justice to both interesting places.