The Traveling American

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Marrakech's Reputation for History, Relaxation and Culture Make it Morocco’s Top Destination

A CITY WITH AN INTERESTING HISTORY 

Marrakech was an important city in Morocco for trade and relaxation under different rulers for centuries. Notwithstanding this history, few would have predicted that Marrakech would become in the late 20th century a top destination for rich and famous visitors from around the globe seeking an exotic location for rest and relaxation. Today, three million people visit Marrakech each year and the metropolitan area has over a million residents. Marrakech now serves as the gateway for Moroccan tourism activity and benefits from the ongoing efforts of the King of Morocco, Mohammed VI, to modernize the country's infrastructure and improve its tourism facilities. There are other exotic and fascinating areas to see in the country such as Fes, the Atlas Mountains, Rabat, Casablanca, Essaouira, Tangier and beyond. However, to see Morocco without visiting Marrakech is like seeing France without visiting Paris.

Founded in 1062 by a nomadic leader from the south, merchants and traders have always been drawn to Marrakech for commerce and relaxation. Berber and Arab caravans sometimes using hundreds of camels brought gold, salt, sugar, slaves, ivory, and handicrafts across the Sahara Desert and over the Atlas Mountains to the city from Timbuktu and other North African kingdoms. With water from the mountains and a pleasant climate, it served as an oasis and one of the most important places in the region for commerce for hundreds of years.

Initially, powerful Berber dynasties such as the Almoravids built palaces, a grand mosque and a medina with strong gates, ramparts, and walls there to protect commercial activities. Despite periods of turmoil and neglect thereafter, the large medina and strategic location of Marrakech enabled the city to continue to grow and prosper. The city reached its peak as a capital and commercial center in the 16th and 17th centuries when Arab rulers of noble descent such as the Saadians and the Alaouites took control of Morocco. Marrakech developed an enduring reputation as an influential center for Moroccan architecture, artisanship, and Berber culture, and avoided the efforts of European powers and the Ottoman empire to control the economic and political affairs of the region.

ATTRACTIONS AND THINGS TO DO IN MARRAKECH

Many popular landmarks and museums are located within the old section of the known as the medina. Traffic is limited there, and many places are accessible only by foot or on a scooter. Outside the medina in the new city neighborhoods of Gueliz and Hivernage there are wide boulevards and an abundance of five-star hotels, restaurants, art galleries, shopping, and nightlife as well as offices and local businesses. These activities along with the outdoor attractions of the nearby Atlas Mountains make Marrakech an attractive destination for travelers of all ages and interests.

Here are some of the best places and experiences worth exploring on a trip to Marrakech:

Koutoubia Mosque- This large mosque and the accompanying gardens, plaza and walkways located within the medina date to 1147. Almohad sultan Abd el-Moumen decided to construct a mosque with features that would create a new standard for Islamic architecture throughout the western world. Although sections of the original mosque have been replaced or destroyed over the centuries, the mosque retains a large prayer hall with a capacity for 25,000 worshipers and features a 230-foot high, rectangular shaped, red sandstone minaret that towers over the city and serves as a city landmark. It is sometimes called the “Booksellers Mosque” because the building was once next to a large souk where books and manuscripts were sold. Today, the books are gone but families and young people like to gather in the area for relaxation. Visitors cannot enter the mosque, but it is a central location to begin a walk around the medina. 

Jemma el-Fna Square- Tourists and residents gravitate to the center of the medina where there is a huge open square surrounded by restaurants, shops, and entertainment. The Jemma el-Fna was originally a marketplace but now it has evolved into an open-air carnival that gyrates with sights, sounds, and smells that attract crowds of onlookers and participants. During the day, you are likely to encounter snake charmers, fortune tellers, tribe members posing in traditional dress for pictures or playing instruments, acrobats, storytellers, and women applying henna tattoos. Fruit and drink stands are always present, but by the late afternoon makeshift restaurants and food stands by the dozens are erected offering grilled meats, sweets, nuts, and fruits to customers. Another important part of the square are the cafes and restaurants surrounding the perimeter with outdoor decks providing a place to relax and watch the festivities. Some people love the show and others find it tacky, but everyone takes a look during their visit to Marrakech.

Majorelle Garden and Yves St. Laurent Museum-  In the 1920s a French painter by the name of Jacques Majorelle built a villa in the new section of Marrakech outside of the medina using Moorish architectural designs and bright colors. He also planted an elaborate garden of tropical trees, flowers, and plants to create a pleasant retreat in that section of town. The French fashion designer Yves St. Laurent bought the house in 1980. He restored it and enhanced the garden by adding walkways for visitors, plantings of palm trees, cactus, and bamboo, and pools for koi fish and flowers. In later years, St. Laurent’s foundation further expanded the project to establish the Majorelle Garden as a community attraction and construct a separate museum depicting his life and work. Its displays a short movie showing how the designer developed Avant Garde designs in his fashion house which became known all around the world. Both the Garden and the museum are worthwhile and distinctive attractions which draw tens of thousands of visitors each year.

La Bahia Palace-   By the end of the 19th century, the governing Alaouite dynasty controlling Morocco was weakened by economic decline and the intrusion of European powers into the country’s affairs. Nevertheless, two viziers who served the sultans built a beautiful palace in Marrakech called Palais Bahia that became renowned for its pleasant courtyards and fountains, and the workmanship of skilled craftsmen who installed decorative tiles, marble, and cedar ceilings in rooms. Once the living quarters and playground of the viziers and their concubines, it later served as the residence of the Marshal Lyautey, who governed the country for decades under the French protectorate of the early 20th century. Today, the palace is well preserved and is an important destination for visitors seeking to sample the majesty and lifestyle of the imperial era.

Saadian Tombs-   The Saadian tombs are a good example of the hidden beauty and contradictions of Moroccan culture. The Saadian dynasty-controlled Morocco for over a hundred years starting in the late 1600s and used Marrakech as their capital city, erecting an ornate burial grounds and tombs for the royal family and the nobility. Nevertheless, these beautiful shrines were walled up and blocked off by a succeeding ruler, Moulay Ismail, until being “rediscovered” in 1917. The three funerary rooms and courtyards there are an impressive site and feature columns, gold leaf, stucco, and carved tombstones with inscriptions from the Koran. 

Souks- The Souks or shops of the medina in Marrakech are built upon a tradition of trading, craftmanship and commerce that dates to the 11th century. Located to the north of the Jemaa el Fna square, they extend for blocks in every direction along a warren of alleyways and lanes. Although the geography is confusing, there is an unusual amount of organization to the location of various shops. That is because each sector contains shops with the same kind of craftspeople or goods. There is a section with mostly clothes, another with copper and brass, another with leather goods, another with carpets, jewelry and so on. That symmetry is helpful for shoppers seeking to buy a particular item because you are likely to find it somewhere and there are multiple sellers around to check prices with. We found a reliable source for argan oils and cosmetics with the help of our guide.

Medina Walls and Gates- The walls of the medina are an attraction themselves. It is surrounded by nine miles of ancient walls which were built with stone and red clay beginning in the 12th century. They are seven feet thick and rise to a height of thirty-three feet. The interior of the medina is accessed through eight arched and decorative entry gates. The gates display classic Moorish features and serve as symbols of the city and frequent stops for tourist selfies.

Golf Courses-  Soccer, equestrian activities, hiking and running may be the most common sports among Moroccans but golf is also popular among visitors to Marrakech. There are now at least fifteen golf courses within ten miles of the medina including The Tony Jacklin Marrakech and Royal Marrakech Golf Club. Golf packages attract visitors from Europe and the U.S. looking for unique luxury hotels, private clubs, and public courses to play on while visiting Marrakech. 

Riads-  There are traditional hotels including luxury properties such as the La Mamounia Hotel, a classic hotel built around a palace which is often rated as one of the top hotels in the world. For some people, however, one of the biggest attractions of visiting Marrakech and other Moroccan cities is to stay in a riad. These accommodations are traditional Moroccan homes in the medina that have been updated and converted into guesthouses for visitors. A classic riad has a small number of lodging units available and features a central courtyard, a patio, and gardens where guests can relax together. Most riads serve breakfast and sometimes have other limited services. The experience of being in the medina close to the souks and daily activities of the local people is often a culturally enriching one. At the same time, the accessibility, bathroom, and bedroom features of these establishments can include everything from hidden apartments fit for a sultan to a substandard bed and breakfast room, so good references and research are important to making an informed choice.

Food-  There is a wide variety of traditional Moroccan dining choices and international cuisine available in Marrakech. Within the medina and around the Square are dozens of family-owned restaurants serving local favorites. Soups and salads are common as starters. For the main course various tagines made with lamb, chicken or beef are served or seafood dishes along with delicious bread and couscous. Mint tea is always available and alcoholic drinks are available at establishments with a western clientele. Sweets and pastries are a regular feature at mealtime also. One distinctive feature of Marrakech particularly in the New Town is the wide variety of dining options. Continental cuisine with French influences and restaurants with Asian and other western selections are common. 

Excursions-  Marrakech is well situated for visitors to take a day trip or an overnight to some of the most exotic locations of the Atlas Mountains. These include traveling east four hours across the mountains to see the famous village of AIt Benhaddou where dozens of movies were filmed along with the studio in Ouarzazate; traveling a couple of hours to see the waterfalls at Cascades Ouzuod,  or driving southeast for an hour or so to see Jbel Toubkal mountain, the second highest peak in Africa, or the picturesque Ourika Valley. A private driver familiar with the area is recommended for traveling these mountain roads.


TIPS FOR VISITING MARRAKECH

When to Go -   Marrakech has pleasant weather for site seeing throughout the spring and fall seasons with daytime temperatures in the 70s and 80s, nighttime temperatures in the 60s, and less than one inch of rain per month. The city’s location close to the High Atlas Mountains provides a partial barrier to the heat of the desert and a source of water from mountain runoffs and snow melt. However, the temperature can still rise above ninety during the summer and winter months have temperatures in the forties during the evening. Consequently, May, September and October are the best months to visit Marrakech. 

How to Get Here- Marrakech is a popular destination for visitors from European locations and other cities in Morocco and is attracting a growing number of American visitors. The airlines with the most direct flights to the city are European based regional carriers Ryanair, EasyJet and TAP Air Portugal along with the national airline Royal Air Morocco. There are currently no direct flights to Marrakech from the United States but major international carriers like Air France, British Air, and Iberian Airlines have daily flights to Marrakech from Paris, London, and Madrid with connections to numerous cities in the U.S. through their American partner airlines Delta and American Airlines. There is fast highway access by car from Casablanca to Marrakech on the A2 that takes 2.5 hours and a three-hour train service there from downtown Casablanca.

Guide Services in Marrakech - For people staying within the medina in Marrakech, it is possible to walk to many destinations inside of the city. However, the buildings and alleys there are poorly marked and were built centuries ago to meet the needs of merchants and traders in the Middle Ages. In addition, many of the popular hotels are in the new city outside of the medina so hotel shuttles and taxis are required to get around to many of the sites. One solution is to use a capable guide to see the sites on foot and to coordinate your transportation needs. Omar Amraoui who can be reached at  omar.amraoui@gmail.com was recommended to us by the La Mamounia Hotel based on many years of service to their guests, and he did not disappoint. Fluent in English and three other European languages, he specializes in walking tours of the medina and guiding visitors to other prime locations in the city. He worked with us to develop an itinerary focused on the places we thought would be interesting to see, educated us about the history of Marrakech and its peoples, and was very helpful in guiding us through the attractions and stores we visited together.