What is it - From the 14th century to the 19th century, the Islamic dynasty known as the Great Mughals commanded much of northern India and conquered some areas in the southern part of the subcontinent on the Deccan plateau. In 1687, the huge Golconda Fortress located near Hyderabad fell to the Mughal Emperor Aurungzeb who made the region part of his empire. Because of the great distance from Delhi, the region was ruled by an appointed viceroy known as the Nizam of Hyderabad. As the years passed, the Mughal empire faded into near oblivion and its rulers became mere figureheads to British colonial rule. Ironically, Hyderabad through the wisdom of six different nizams thrived as a principality by becoming economically independent, welcoming new technology and the outside world, and allying with the British in internal disputes with other rulers. They also promoted modern banking and higher education, and improved infrastructure throughout the realm.

Richest Family in the World

By 1911, when Osman Ali Khan succeeded his father as Nizam,  his family had become one of the richest in the world through the accumulation of diamonds, jewels, art collections,  gold and silver bullion, and other assets with an estimated current value of approximately $236 billion.  This wealth supported a lavish lifestyle.  The family’s main palace known as Chowmahalla served as the royal compound for most of the 19th century. It had an estimated 6,000 employees including bodyguards. The new Nizam reportedly never lived in Chowmahalla but frequently stayed in the majestic Falaknuma Palace overlooking the city which was purchased and expanded by the Nizam family around 1897. He eventually married 3 women, had 42 concubines and fathered an estimated 200 children. 

Skilled Diplomacy

Skilled at great power politics, one of Osman Ali Khan’s sons married into the family of the last sultan of Ottoman Turkey in 1921 and was subsequently designated as the heir to the entire caliphate of Islam. Meanwhile, the Nizam ruled a large population that was predominantly Hindu in a territory roughly the size of modern Italy. He used a feudal system of government that conflicted with the independence and democratic values of Indian nationalists. In the succeeding decades, Nizam Osman Ali Khan became increasingly eccentric and proud, and supposedly could be miserly as well. Nevertheless, dignitaries from throughout the world visited the Nizam, bringing gifts with them ranging from antique cars to modern inventions to priceless jewels. At one point, the British Governor called together the various maharaja's, princes, and other royals of the Indian subcontinent for meetings and established a discussion body known as the Chamber of Princes. While the Nizam had been provided by the British with a grand embassy residence in New Delhi designed by the famous architect Lutyens, he did not participate in these group gatherings and preferred direct contact with other rulers. 

Despite these eccentricities and the growing complexities facing India after World War II, the aging Nizam pursued several strategies to retain his realm. These included appealing to the United Nations for help in remaining an independent state, refusing to surrender his kingdom to Indian troops on his border, seeking special status as part of Islamic Pakistan, and even attempting to buy Goa from Portugal to preserve a link to the sea for his territory. Eventually, in 1948 the ruler agreed that his kingdom would become part of the nation of India making him the last Nizam, and it was not long before his territories were reallocated to several nearby Indian states. Although the Nizam retained his properties and goods, the family lost the power to tax or exercise governmental control of the region. The next 50 years were a long and painful denouement as the family’s wealth was stolen, wasted, abandoned or tied up in litigation among thousands of claimants, and meanwhile the palaces deteriorated. Just within the past few years, the final lawsuit allocating the family’s assets was settled by a British court.

Palace Restoration Projects

Fortunately, some relatives of the Nizam were able to refocus the family’s energy on the preservation of the palaces and the legacy of the Nizam's rule. Today, two legacies of this dynasty are worth visiting in Hyderabad. First, some of the original buildings and grounds of the Chowmahalla Palace remain intact and open to the public as a museum. You can take a guided tour through the throne room, reception halls and museum spaces in which relics including gilded swords, old photographs, royal garb, and dining settings are displayed. In addition, numerous gifts and letters from Presidents, kings and czars can be observed. Many people enjoy seeing Nizam's collection of classic cars from the early 20th century which may not run today but have been lovingly restored.

The second place to visit is the Falaknuma Palace which is now a heritage hotel run by the luxury Taj hotel chain. Tours are not generally available but if you book a dinner or high tea at the hotel, you will be provided with a private tour of the Nizam’s residence. While the guest rooms and private areas of the hotel are off limits, the dining area, common grounds, and former living space of the royal family can be seen. We were escorted by a hotel employee who had served as a bodyguard to the last Nizam and proudly presented his own stories of meeting various Bollywood stars and world leaders in earlier years.

It is difficult from today's perspective to make a fair assessment of an autocratic monarchy that began in the late stages of the middle ages and ended in the modern world. Nevertheless, the Nizams of Hyderabad resisted becoming colonial puppets and may have done some useful things to prepare their subjects for self-government and economic independence. Today, Hyderabad is considered one of India's centers for technology innovation and education, and the residents of this city of 7 million rank high by most economic measures.