Sometimes visiting a city can be disappointing the second time around. So when I went to a conference in San Antonio recently, I was nostalgic about the wonderful time we had there when our kids were young, but I had low expectations that the experience would be the same almost twenty years later.  Instead, I was pleasantly surprised to find that America's seventh largest city of 2 million diverse people remains full of interesting history, exciting culture, good food and other attractions that make it an excellent place to visit.

Historic Sites

History is never far from view in San Antonio as the legacy of the Alamo and the Texas War of Independence fill the air. After more than three hundred years of Spanish colonial rule and later domination by the Mexican government of President Santa Anna, longtime Tejanos residents and pioneer immigrants rebelled in 1835 seeking local control of the sparsely populated region. Labelled as traitors and pirates by the authorities, a Mexican army of several thousand men accompanied by cavalry and cannons converged on San Antonio where a large group of resisters gathered at the Alamo military fort and church. This motley crew included local farmers, supporters from all over the U.S. and also well-known frontiersmen like Davey Crockett and Jim Bowie. 

After several days of bombardment, General Jose de Urrea’s troops broke through the northern walls of the compound, killed most of the 200 defenders through fierce fighting, and executed the rest. The Mexicans then destroyed the interior structures of the fort and moved on. While ostensibly a tactical victory, the massacre at the Alamo inspired Texans and their sympathizers in the U.S. to rally their forces. Under the leadership of Sam Houston, the Texans routed a large portion of the Mexican army at San Jacinto, captured Santa Anna, and then negotiated a disputed treaty acknowledging Texas’ self-rule in 1836. Texas later became the twenty-eighth state in 1845 when it was annexed by the United States which led to the Mexican War. 

Today, a large portion of the walled compound has been preserved as a living museum open to the public free of charge. In addition to the iconic façade of the Alamo church, visitors can see relics and learn the details of battle in the museum. Walking through the gardens and watching reenactments of elements of the battle provides a memorable experience for adults and older children. 

The Alamo is not the only historic site in town. Spanish colonial architecture can be viewed at several Spanish missions found in the area, and at other landmarks such as the Governor's Palace and the San Fernando Cathedral. The post-independence period of San Antonio's history can be sampled at the Institute of Texas Culture.

River Walk and Food Galore

The crown jewel of downtown San Antonio is the 15-mile-long River Walk which snakes its way through the central business district about 25 feet below the adjoining streets. The preservation and rerouting of the San Antonio River into a scenic entertainment district and city park was a visionary move by City authorities in the 1960's. Stairs lead down to walkways at numerous locations on both sides of the water allowing for easy access.

There are three ways to enjoy the River Walk which attracts more than 11 million visitors annually. One is to take a brightly colored motorized barge along the water to take in the sites which include tree lined promenades and some small parks. Another is to hike along the river. But many people eat, drink, and shop their way by visiting one of the numerous restaurants, cafes and stores situated on the main part of the River Walk. Period lighting makes the River Walk a popular nightspot for locals and tourists of all ages. Tex Mex cuisine as well as fine dining can be found in numerous locations.

Entertainment and Events

There are plenty of entertainment and recreation events going on in town on a regular basis. These include the Holiday River Parade every November featuring 30 decorated floats and Santa Claus, a Day of the Dead festival based on Mexican traditions, and numerous art festivals at places like the La Villita Historic Arts Village. Families will enjoy the uniquely situated Six Flags over Fiesta Texas which is located in an old quarry and the Sea World Park in the suburbs, and in town there are attractions like the Legoland Discovery Center and the 579 foot high Tower of the Americas.  Sporting events, concerts, and shows held at the Alamodome, the historic Azteca Theatre and the Henry Gonzales Convention Center also attract spectators to large events and group activities.

Taken as a whole, San Antonio provides a comfortable location for newcomers and boasts enough activities to keep you interested for a three to five-day trip.

TIPS ON VISITING SAN ANTONIO

When to Go: San Antonio has warm weather with considerable sunshine throughout the year. But the heat and humidity from July to September can interfere with sightseeing as can the occasional rains and flooding in late spring and early fall. The best weather for enjoying the outdoors and the City is generally between October and December, and from March to May.

Where to Stay: There are about two dozen quality hotels located in the core area around the Alamo and the Convention Center, which are also near the River Walk. The Grand Hyatt, the Marriott River Walk and the Hilton Palacio Del Rio offer rooms with reasonable rates in comparison to other cities and are popular with business guests and tourists.

Side Trips: Travelers seeking to extend their visit should consider driving to the Hill Country nearby which has several spectacular golf resorts like La Cantera Resort and Spa as well as lots of local food delights such as Rudy’s Country Store and Bar-B-Q.  Another option is to visit the emerging hot spot of Austin which is only a few hours’ drive to the north.