The Traveling American has visited more than sixty cities in the United States and Canada over the past thirty years. The task of naming the Top Ten large cities in these two countries was a difficult one. We defined large cities as those with a metropolitan population of at least 300,000 and ended up selecting thirteen cities (there were a few ties). We believe these cities are the most memorable places in these two countries for travelers to experience during a short visit.

THE CITY NAMED NUMBER 7 IS SAN FRANCISCO,CALIFORNIA:

The “City by the Bay” is a spectacular place to look at from almost any location. The city has a special charm whether you are crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, sitting in a café on Fisherman’s Wharf having a Dungeness crab, or gazing out of a prison cell at Alcatraz planning an imaginary escape. San Francisco has attracted new residents and visitors ever since it became America’s port on the Pacific during the California Gold Rush of the 1840s. With a population of 850,000 and 22 million visitors annually, San Francisco is the U.S. city with the highest median household income and the third highest cost to live. Its Mediterranean climate features dry summers with comfortable temperatures, and mild and sometimes wet winters.

HISTORY OF THE CITY

Spanish Roots and Gold Rush Growth -San Francisco has an interesting history. It started as the northern most outpost of Spain’s empire in the Americas, but the small fort and Franciscan missions the original settlers established after 1776 had little impact on the region. Visited by whaling ships, frontier trappers, and Russian traders in the early 1800s, San Francisco still had only eight hundred inhabitants when seized by American forces during the Mexican War. However, everything changed after 1848 when gold was discovered in the Sierra Nevada mountains. San Francisco quickly became a frontier town and the supply base for tens of thousands of prospectors seeking their fortunes from the gold and silver mines of the region. Hoping to capitalize on the economic opportunities of California, industrialists from the Union Pacific Railroad, Wells Fargo Bank, local shipyards, and mining companies helped transform San Francisco in a few decades into America’s gateway on the Pacific Ocean. By 1900 it was a prosperous city of 300,000 people filled with attractive Victorian buildings, parks, and public facilities that included the world’s largest Sutro Baths, the Golden Gate Park, and a cable car system with six hundred cars in operation.

Disaster and Economic Innovation - The Great Earthquake and Fire of 1906 killed thousands of people, destroyed five square miles of buildings, and created an estimated 200,000 homeless people. But the rebuilding effort was remarkable. By 1915, a world’s fair known as the Panama- Pacific Exposition which attracted over twenty million visitors confirmed San Francisco’s recovery and displayed the region’s reputation for innovation and eclectic lifestyles. This was followed by the construction of the Oakland Bay Bridge in 1936, the Golden Gate Bridge in 1937, and the expansion of the military facilities at the Presidio after World War I which provided the infrastructure for continued growth. The next century would see San Francisco become one of the nation’s leading places for technological innovation and social debate that continues to this day.

For a well-rounded visit to San Francisco, the following sites and activities are worth considering:

MUSEUMS

Alcatraz – One of the most unusual museums in the world is Alcatraz Island, a part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area located in the middle of San Francisco Bay. Used as a Navy fort and a military prison from 1859 until 1934, it became famous throughout the country after it was converted into a maximum-security federal penitentiary. Dangerous felons and gangsters were imprisoned there in 264 cells on the massive rock island until 1963. Today, ferries leaving from Fisherman’s Wharf transport 1.5 million visitors to the museum annually. The main attractions include an orientation film on the history of the prison and life for inmates there, an audio tour, and views of the cells and desolate landscape. Exhibits bring to life the Spartan conditions under which prisoners and their guards served, and the legends they created. There were fourteen escape attempts by thirty-four prisoners over the years. While some drowned and others were caught or killed, rumors persist that several survived.

San Francisco National Maritime Museum - The Maritime Museum located in the marina district displays exhibits and artifacts showing the role that the port, ships, and mariners played in the history and growth of the city. But just as impressive are the seven historic ships moored behind the museum building at the Hyde Street Pier. These include the three masted schooner Balclutha, the Eureka ferry boat, a tugboat, and other large vessels. Do not be surprised to see experienced swimmers taking a cool dip off the beach at the Aquatic Park next to the pier.

ENTERTAINMENT AND LEISURE

Fishermen’s Wharf and Pier 39 - The northern part of the city contains fifty or so commercial piers. Over the years, many of these piers were converted from shipping warehouses and maritime use into an array of stores, restaurants, clubs, and other attractions. The Fisherman’s Wharf area located along Jefferson Street was the historic center for fishermen and other mariners who berthed their boats there or frequented the port area. Today, the area is full of restaurants serving seafood, Italian, or Chinese fare along with cafes and booths. You will see large pots cooking Dungeness crabs or chowder, and boats with fresh fish and crab. Other buildings in this area that once served as canneries or warehouses now serve as shopping venues, museums, souvenir shops, and specialty shops. Pier 39 has become one of the most popular attractions in the city since it was converted in 1978 from a cargo pier to a fishing village featuring specialty shops, amusements, performance venue, and small aquarium. People also can gaze at sea lions who lay out on rafts adjacent to Pier 39.

Ghirardelli Square - Ghirardelli Square is a stylish shopping center that was once a mill. Known for its clock tower, red brick buildings, and modern touches, it has popular restaurants and high-end stores for shoppers and tourists to enjoy. People flock to the Ghirardelli Chocolate outlet there to sample and purchase the famous chocolate products they manufacture in the area.

Sports - San Francisco’s sports teams are an important part of city life. First, Oracle Park, the home of the San Francisco Giants located just south of the Bay Bridge, emerged during the 2000s as a popular destination for local and national sports fans. With Barry Bonds hitting home runs into the bay and the Giants winning three World Series during that era, the stadium became the place to be for longtime fans and younger residents. Second, the Golden State Warriors have played in six NBA championships in the past decade and won four titles. They now play in the new Chase Center arena located close to Oracle Park which boasts the latest technologies and looks like a contemporary art museum. Finally, the football 49ers who play in Santa Clara have won five Super Bowls and have made the playoffs in four of the last five seasons. It is no surprise that the city was ranked as the 9th Best Sports City in the country from a fan’s perspective in a recent study.

LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC PLACES

Golden Gate Bridge - One of the principal landmarks of San Francisco is the Golden Gate Bridge which connects the city with Marin County. Now almost 90 years old, the bridge remains an engineering marvel. Suspended by two huge steel cables more than three feet wide that extend for about 1.5 miles, it was built to withstand the fierce winds above the water and the strong currents entering the bay. The red color of the bridge makes it distinctive and recognized everywhere. More than forty million vehicles cross the bridge each year. Tourists take pictures of the bridge from Baker Beach or Crissy Field in the city, or from observation points on the Marin side.

Chinatown - San Francisco’s Chinatown is the largest one outside of Asia and the largest in North America. Chinese immigrants were first attracted to the area during the Gold Rush and Chinese laborers played a vital role later in the 19th century in completing the transcontinental railroad which ended in Sacramento. Despite facing immigration limitations and discriminatory laws, a vibrant community emerged in San Francisco. The Chinatown neighborhood covers many streets but is centered on the ornate Dragon’s Gate on Grant Avenue at its southern end. The commercial areas of Chinatown feature restaurants with dim sum and other traditional Chinese food along with lounges and karaoke bars. Shops display everything from herbal medicines to souvenirs to fresh vegetables to clothing. For people interested in culture, there are ornate temples such as the traditional Tien How and institutions with interesting collections such as the Pacific Heritage Museum and Chinese Cultural Center.

Haight Ashbury - Haight-Ashbury first developed into a hippie haven in the early 1960s and soon attracted young people from all over the country seeking a place to explore themselves and start movements affecting music, politics, and social norms. Visitors often wonder if vestiges of those days still exist. While the neighborhood is diverse and has more hipsters than hippies today, it has retained an eclectic flavor. The shops, restaurants, and murals there are distinctive. You will find vintage clothing stores, quirky boutiques, costume shops, health stores, bookstores, and record shops sprinkled among restaurants and clubs with live music.

OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES

Cable Cars - There are many excellent modes of transportation in San Francisco ranging from the 95-mile-long light rail BART system and ferry services on both sides of the Bay to bus and metro streetcars. But the romantic way to travel is to take a cable car over the hills of San Francisco on one of the three remaining cable car routes in the city. First launched in 1873, the use of automobiles and buses caused most of the cable cars to be retired from use in 1947. However, the remaining cable system and the tracks were renovated in 1984 and all the cars were restored. So, the current system still operates three routes that include an east and west route on California Street that passes Chinatown and the Financial District, a north and south route starting near Union Square and ending around Ghirardelli Square and North Beach, and another north and south route starting near Union Square and ending close to Fisherman’s Wharf. Taking a ride on a cable car is a unique experience and a one-way fare cost only $8 per person. It is a good way to relax and see some sites in the city while hearing the clang of the bell. You can ride inside on a seat or hang on the outside if you prefer to get closer to the action.

Parks - San Francisco is a city with numerous public parks and open spaces for people to hang out and recreate. Golden Gate Park runs from the Pacific Ocean to the center of the city and is one of the largest parks in the world. Much of the park remains a natural environment but there are special gardens, a music concourse with benches, lawns and trees used for summer performances, and a complex housing a science museum, aquarium, and planetarian. Closer to the Bay, the Marina Green and the paths along the nearby waterfront are always busy with people flying kites, picnicking, or walking. The redeveloped land of the Presidio Trust is also full of facilities for sports and active recreation, beach areas, and extensive trail systems for use by residents and the public.

NEARBY EXCURSIONS

Sausalito, Muir Woods, and Napa Valley - Within a short distance from San Francisco are three other attractions worth visiting. Just north of the Golden Gate Bridge lies the bayside village of Sausalito, where Mediterranean style villas cling to the hillside and tourists flock to cafes and shops along the waterfront. Another few miles along Route 101 lies Muir Woods, where a forest of redwoods containing some of the world’s oldest and tallest trees can be visited and enjoyed. Finally, many people travel to the more than four hundred wineries located near San Francisco in Sonoma or Napa Valleys to sample the wares and take in the countryside.