Alaska’s Glacier Bay National Park Preserves Glaciers and Wildlife for Future Generations
What Is It?- When Captain George Vancouver explored the coastal areas of Alaska by sea in 1794, he saw large wilderness areas, abundant animals and marine life, and majestic mountains. The most striking place he discovered was the area now known as Glacier Bay where a massive shelf of glacial ice occupied the entire bay and extended into the interior land for 100 miles. Glacier Bay is now a free-flowing fjord surrounded by mountain peaks with twelve receding tidewater glaciers running into it and water up to 1000 feet deep. However, during the “Little Ice Age” that took place from 1350 AD to 1800 AD, substantially colder temperatures affected northern Europe and North America causing many glaciers in Alaska and elsewhere to increase in size.
The unique environment and natural wonders of Glacier Bay were visited by renowned American naturalist John Muir in 1879. He brought national attention to what he called the “enthralling beauty of Glacier Bay” and was able to have it named as a National Monument worthy of preservation. This attracted tourists who were interested in seeing the glaciers up close by steamship. In 1980, Congress designated the region as a National Park under the supervision of the National Park Service. The agency's mission is “to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and wildlife therein... and to leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” Development is strictly prohibited in Glacier Bay and access to the glaciers and other land there by cruise ships and pleasure vessels is controlled. Glacier Bay is also part of a larger World Heritage Site designated by the United Nations.
What You Will See There- The National Park and Preserve at Glacier Bay remains a huge and unique place. Over 3.3 million acres of mountains, glaciers, forests and waterways are in the Bay along with flourishing populations of marine life and land animals. The Visitors Center and Lodge for the park are located at Bartlett Cove at the southern entrance of the Bay, and the tidewater glaciers start 65 miles up the Bay.
Some of the most popular places to see and things to do when traveling through the National Park are:
Admiring the Waters and Mountains of the Fjord- The waters of Glacier Bay flow slowly and appear to be as smooth as a small lake. They have a dark blue color that belies that great depth of the water. Although large clusters of ice that calve off a glacier can be spotted from time to time, the Bay itself does not freeze. The Bay is surrounded on both sides by towering cliffs. Distant mountains such as Mount Fairweather and Mount Salisbury rise to heights ranging from 5,000 feet to 15,300 feet. The areas where glacial ice has disappeared or retreated are beautiful also. Some places have been transformed into dense forests that come right down to the water while others have left dark and barren land behind.
Exploring Johns Hopkins Glacier- One of the first glaciers you see in the Bay is the Johns Hopkins Glacier which was formed from numerous tributaries extending more than 12 miles into the surrounding peaks. About one mile wide and 225-300 feet tall at its mouth, Johns Hopkins has a beautiful blue color but is also full of piles of dirt and debris. One unusual feature of this glacier is that it calves large chunks of ice below the surface of the water, causing "basel burgs" to emerge on the surface sometimes with explosive force and then floating away.
Photographing the Margerie Glacier- The Margerie Glacier is universally regarded as the most fascinating and beautiful glacier by visitors. Located far up in the Bay on the western side, this glacier had its origins in the high mountains of the Fairweather Range more than 20 miles inland. Despite receding in some parts of the glacier, its continues to flow directly into the Bay with an ice front almost a mile wide and up to 200 feet above the waterline. Cruise ships usually meander for an hour or more in this area, providing their passengers with an opportunity to admire its bright blue and white color and see the miles of glacial tributaries snaking up the slope behind it.
Seeing the Grand Pacific Glacier- The Grand Pacific Glacier is located at the northern end of Glacier Bay and thirty years ago its terminus joined together with the Margerie Glacier. Notwithstanding the thinning of its ice, the glacier remains 1.35 miles wide and 150 feet tall at the terminus, up to 900 feet thick in some places, and extends back into the mountains for 20 miles. A large amount of rock and debris has accumulated on the surface of this glacier leaving a dark wall in front of it. This was caused by avalanches, the scouring of the valley, and the workings of the Ferris Glacier tributary.
Watching for Sea Life and Other Animals- Sea mammals and wildlife are fully protected throughout the National Park, so sometimes visitors can spot a variety of interesting species here. Humpback whales can be viewed in the lower portion of the Bay, and sea otters are commonly seen floating along on their back or occupying a drifting sheet of ice. It will take some diligence and binoculars to watch the abundant American eagle population on land or over the Bay, or to spot bear, mountain goats, moose, and nesting birds at the waters edge or in the forests.
When to Go- Glacier National Park is open throughout the year and an entrance fee is required. Most visitors arrive during the Cruise Ship season from May to September when two large ships per day are allowed to enter the Bay. Smaller ships providing tours are infrequent during the off season.
How to Get Here- Cruises remain the overwhelming choice for visitors to see Glacier Bay. If you want to go here yourself, the best bet is to book one of the daily flights to the small town of Gustavus from Juneau on Alaska Airlines between June to August, or take a flight on a local airline called Ward Air. Alaska Seaplanes has six flights per day in the summer and fewer flights in the winter. The Alaska Marine Highway System also offers ferry service to Gustavus form Juneau some days which can take four to six hours depending on the number of stops and weather conditions. Check schedules carefully before planning a trip to Glacier Bay. Local tour companies based in Gustavus offer excursions to the Bay and there are some lodges and cabins available in the town. The Gustavus Visitors Association coordinates tourist information for the area.