The Traveling American

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Astoria and Oregon's North Coast Offer History and Natural Beauty

For people who live along the eastern seaboard, it is difficult to appreciate the differences between this region and the coastline of the Pacific Northwest. The Northeast Corridor consists of large and small cities located between Boston and Washington, D.C. It is sometimes characterized as a single metropolis with close to fifty-six million people. In contrast, the rugged coastline of Northern California, Oregon, and Washington extends from San Francisco to Seattle for almost one thousand miles with only two small cities in between: Eureka, California with a population of 27,000 and Coos Bay, Oregon with a population of 16,000.

There are three ways to travel through the Pacific Northwest. One way is to take a cruise along the coast between San Francisco and Vancouver stopping at ports along the way. Most cruises then continue north to Alaska or south to Los Angeles depending on the season. Another way is to drive along Route 101, a two-lane coastal highway that meanders through small towns and mountain passes. However, the fastest way to travel is to drive on Interstate 5 which is located about fifty miles east of the coast and passes through the region’s principal cities of Portland, Tacoma, and Seattle into Canada.

Oregon’s North Coast is one place to experience a taste of the Pacific Northwest. We recommend starting with the small city of Astoria, where the mighty Columbia River comes down from the mountains to the east and empties into the Pacific, and then continuing to the nearby beach communities.

Astoria’s Historic Importance- Astoria is a significant location in American history. It marks the location where the explorers Lewis and Clark first viewed the Pacific Ocean in 1805 after years of traversing the wilderness. Other explorers who had visited the Oregon coast between the late 1500s and 1800 included: (i) several Spanish mariners sailing north from Mexico; (2) renowned British explorers Sir Francis Drake, Captain James Cook, and George Vancouver, and (3) an American captain named Robert Gray. However, their futile searches for a Northwest Passage and attempts to claim the region for Spain, England, or the United States had little effect on the Native American coastal tribes living there.

The arrival of Lewis and Clark, who built Fort Clatsop near the mouth of the Columbia River in 1805, was different. It created national interest in the northwest coast and the other lands included in the Louisiana Purchase from France. Only six years later, millionaire John Jacob Astor established a trading post in Astoria and in the succeeding decades the city became a regional center for the fishing, timber, fur trading and shipping industries. In 1846, Great Britian ceded control of all areas south of 49th parallel to the United States, and shortly thereafter in 1859 the State of Oregon was established with only a population of about 50,000 people. The strategic location of the town and the treacherous nature of the waters soon led to the establishment of important forts, lighthouses, and Coast Guard installations in the region. Today, the region remains dependent upon the fishing and timber industries but economic activity from tourism and a growing retirement community are also important contributors to local businesses.

Things to Do Around Astoria

There are many interesting places to see in Astoria including these sites:

Astoria-Megler Bridge- The waters of the Columbia River are fast moving, and they collide with the waves and currents of the Pacific Ocean. This has created difficulties for mariners for centuries. In addition, the wide mouth of the river necessitated the use of rafts and ferries to move north or south across it. In 1966, the 4.1-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge was built across the river making truck, car, and pedestrian traffic possible. The huge bridge rises two hundred feet above the water allowing freighters and other large vessels to pass through to sites upriver. It is an impressive site to see from the riverbank or downtown.

Astoria Riverwalk- The Astoria Riverwalk is a 6.5-mile-long walkway that goes along the banks of the Columbia River. It is a pleasant place to take a stroll and stop to look at landmarks such as the salmon cannery that once produced tons of fish each year and the sea lions who have staked their claim to the area.

Astoria Column- People who like taking in the surroundings may enjoy climbing the 164 steps of the Astoria Column which was constructed on the highest point in the city in 1926. From the top of this column, you can see the ocean, the bay, the river, and the nearby woodlands. Along the way, the walls of the column display murals showing different historic events from the city’s history.

Columbia River Maritime Museum- This modern museum has exhibits which depict the ecology and characteristics of the river along with background on the explorers, industries, and navigators who made use of its power and natural resources. One of the more interesting pieces of history explained at the museum is the World War II battles where a surfaced Japanese submarine and a seaplane fired on Fort Stevens on two occasions in 1942.

Lewis and Clark National Park - This small national park features a reconstruction of the Fort Clatsop winter fort built by Lewis and Clark upon their arrival at the Pacific Ocean near modern Astoria. The exhibits describe the history and struggles of the expedition including their interactions with the native people of the area. Park rangers and local guides provide information and offer demonstrations.

Downtown Shopping - Downtown Astoria is where the commercial activity of the city is located. It features an interesting mix of retail stores and personal services. Many stores are locally owned and offer gifts, home goods, crafts, and books. Other popular venues are museums, theaters, and music stores. Complementing these stores are more than two dozen galleries along with fifteen wellness and salon establishments. The trolley system that runs along the riverwalk provides easy access from other locations and most stores are located on Marine Drive and Commercial Street which run parallel to the river. Festivals and special events held throughout the year include a crab and wine festival, international film festival, poet’s gathering, lecture series, music events, and a regatta.

Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock

Astoria is also known as the gateway to the beach communities of the Oregon coast, which are populated by retirees, tourists, and weekenders from Portland. One of the most interesting places to see along the coast is Cannon Beach, located about thirty miles south of Astoria. The town is called Cannon Beach because several cannons from a famous U.S. warship, The Shark, washed up over the years nearby after the vessel sank in 1846.

The wide Cannon Beach is a favorite place for locals and visitors to walk. The view is enhanced by Haystack Rock, a 235-foot-high geological marvel that juts out of the sand just a few feet offshore. Oregon has initiated laws designed to protect the ability of the public to access beaches and use the sand and water for outdoor activities. In addition to surfing and bodyboarding, sand boarding, horseback riding and surf fishing are popular. The Oregon Beach Bill of 1966 declares that all wet sand within sixteen vertical feet of the low tide line belongs to the state, and the public has an easement up to the line of vegetation regardless of underlying property rights. However, Haystack Rock is a National Wildlife Refuge so climbing it or collecting anything is prohibited to protect the seabird nests and other marine plants and life there.

Seaside

Another beach resort that attracts families throughout the year is Seaside Beach which is located closer to Astoria. Seaside was developed as Oregon’s first seashore resort community in the 1870s, and it retains the charms of that era in its restaurants, pubs, cafes, and shops on Broadway Street. Other attractions include a grand oceanfront promenade, a small amusement park and carousel, and cool waters for wading and swimming. One longstanding tradition at Seaside is the Worldwide Sandcastle Championship. The summers are quite pleasant along the Oregon Coast with temperatures rarely exceeding 85 degrees. Early fall and late spring are also comfortable for sightseeing although the likelihood of encountering rain or fog increases. Most people dress in layers, and visitors should prepare to adjust to temperatures that fall frequently between 55 degrees and 75 degrees in these three seasons.