Beautiful Desolation of Bukha Beach- Sultanate of Oman
What is It - Located on the south and east coasts of the Arabian Peninsula, the Sultanate of Oman lacks the opulent wealth and ultra-modern buildings of neighboring Dubai. In addition, when you cross the border into Oman from Dubai and travel across the Musandam Peninsula, the terrain along the Persian Gulf changes from sandy and flat desert to gravelly treeless land clustered on top of limestone cliffs that extend down to the water.
This is especially true on the coastal highway leading to the port city of Khasab which has emerged as a popular destination for cruise ship passengers and day trippers seeking a picnic, swimming and porpoise watching excursion on a traditional voyage through the fjords on a dhow. This area appeared to be an unlikely place to find a picturesque and enjoyable beach to spend a few hours at during our visit to the area.
At one spot on the highway, there is a place where the mountains give way to hills and then to a small city known as Bukha which has a crescent shaped harbor. Inhabited for centuries and controlled by Omani sultans since the late 1700s, the area was previously dominated by Portuguese traders. The Portuguese contested for control from time to time with the Ottoman Empire and Persian rulers across the Gulf. The legacy of these struggles is embodied in a crumbling watchtower fort at the foot of the mountains and a restored fort with several circular towers adjacent to the beach. These monuments to the past contrast with an ornate mosque and the modern highway passing through the town.
Bukha Beach, located in the center of the bay, might be considered unremarkable by some people. But it has several features that make it interesting. First, the beach provides physical separation and a visual contrast between the stark landscape of the mountains and the calm waters of the Persian Gulf. Perhaps it has something to do with the natural feel of the place in contrast to the newly minted and sometimes man-made beaches of Dubai. Second, although it is located close to a small city with about 3,000 residents, Bukha Beach is not surrounded by food trucks or vendors and appears pristine. Instead, the only footprints leading up and down the beach were my own and what looked like the hoof prints of an early morning horse and rider. Finally, the water was warm and calm with a relaxing turquoise color.
There are other beaches in Oman that are more luxurious. World-class resorts have been built in recent years near the country's capital of Muscat located several hours to the south which have pina coladas and lifeguards close at hand. There is also another beach several miles closer to Khasab known as Beach Park Hil Oman which is also open to public. It has restrooms, a playground, picnic tables and refreshments, but less scenery and ambiance. Nevertheless, any traveler along the coastal highway of Oman should take a break or picnic at Bukha Beach and Bukha Fort to contemplate the many contrasts of this desolate and beautiful shore.
Interesting Facts - Although set back several hundred feet from the water today, the Bukha Fort was likely directly adjacent to the shore in prior centuries. Local folklore warns that prisoners of the Sultan were sometimes chained to the front of the fort and allowed to drown when the tide came in. In modern times, the Iranian navy, oil tankers and U.S. ships keep an eye on each other in a narrow portion of the gulf nearby known as the Strait of Hormuz which separates Oman from Iran.
How to Get Here - Bukha is about a 45 minute drive by bus or car from Khasab for visitors on cruise ships and about a three hour drive from Dubai after a border crossing for people interested in a weekend trip to the Musandam Peninsula or a lengthy day trip. If coming from Dubai, it is best to use an experienced tour guide who knows the process as well as good locations for meals and restrooms along the coastal highway.
When to Go- Oman is quite hot all year long but particularly from May to September when temperatures can reach 100 degrees frequently even on the coast. Rainfall is slight year-round with some showers in the winter. Trips to interior regions should only be attempted with proper preparation and an experienced guide during the more temperate months.
Costs - Tours from Khasab for dhow cruises or explorations of the Bukha region range in price from $60 to $100 per person for a full day. If based in Dubai, your hotel concierge should be able to provide some reputable tour guides and expect to pay a minimum of several hundred dollars for a small group.