Cordoba's Reminders of Past Empires and Lively Neighborhoods Provide a Special Experience - Cordoba, Spain
For two millennium, the great empires of the Mediterranean contested for control and influence in the Andalusian section of Spain. The picturesque city of Cordoba located along the Guadalquivir River boasts numerous World Heritage sites that showcase its history as a leading center of the Roman, Visigoth, Al-Andalus and Christian worlds throughout ancient times and the Middle Ages. People who visit Cordoba come away with a new understanding of the historical importance of the city . It was the centerpiece of Moorish art, culture and wealth for several centuries and boasted an estimated population of 500,000 people around 950 AD making it the largest city in Europe. Since Cordoba is easily reachable by high speed train from Madrid, Seville, and the Costa del Sol, or by a short flight from other Spanish cities, it should be included as a day trip or short visit on any extended travel to Spain. The best times to visit the city are in the spring and fall since summer temperatures can easily rise to 100 degrees. Winters are mild, but rain and chill is common from December into March.
History of Cordoba
Cordoba is believed to have been first settled by people from Carthage which led it to be attacked and captured by the Romans during the Second Punic War in 206 BC. Despite being partially destroyed by Julius Caesar during Rome's civil war, the city flourished under Augustus Caesar and became the capital of one of Rome's Spanish provinces. Cordoba had a forum, temples to Roman gods, grand villas, and other Roman structures. One of those architectural marvels which still exists is the foundation of the Roman bridge across the Guadalquivir River.
After the fall of Rome, the Eastern Roman Empire based in Constantinople managed to retain control of Cordoba until 572 AD when the Visigoth kings took over the region. The most prominent legacy of the Visigoths is that they built a Christian church on land near a bend in the river. That church was later replaced by the Grand Mosque of Cordoba known as La Mezquita after the Moors took control of the City in 711 and Abd-al-Rahman I established the Umayyad dynasty which ruled a large part of the Iberian peninsula and land in North Africa.
Cordoba grew in size and importance in succeeding centuries. In the 10th century, the city was populated by Arabs, Jews, and Christians from all over the Mediterranean. This trading center had a large group of merchants who skillfully generated wealth for the city from the agricultural and mineral riches of the region. Equally important was Cordoba's reputation as an intellectual and cultural center. Public facilities including mosques, a library, palaces, baths and roads with street lighting contributed to its success. The high point for the city may have been under Abd-al-Rahman III who designated the city as a Caliphate in 929 AD, commissioned an expansion of the La Mezquita mosque, and began construction of his Medina Azahara palace complex in hills to the west of the city around 950 AD. Within a century, however, upheaval within the Islamic world led to a rebellion by a rival Berber leader. Muhammad II al-Mahdi conducted a four year siege of Cordoba beginning in 1009 AD, which was followed by the looting of the city and subsequent dismantling and abandonment of the grand buildings at Medina Azahara.
After a slow and steady decline under Almohad rulers from North Africa and local taifa factions, the Kingdom of Castille took advantage of dissatisfaction among some residents of the city to launch a takeover of the city in 1236 AD. After infiltrating some friendly neighborhoods in Cordoba, Castille's allies mounted a siege and they were eventually able to overrun the entire city with a small band of knights. The fall of Cordoba was one of many victories won by the armies of the Christian Kingdoms of Leon, Castille, Portugal and Aragon in the first half of the 13th century. Although the reconquest of the Iberian peninsula was not completed until the fall of Granada in 1492, the region was no longer under Islamic control. Many of the Moors and Jews who once inhabited the city left after the reconquest and the city attracted new residents from northern Spain to settle there.
Interesting Places to Visit in Cordoba
Torre de la Calahorra - A good place to begin your sightseeing is to visit the medieval tower on the far side of the Guadalquivir River and then approach the old town by walking across the bridge. The tower contains a 14th century watchtower that provides excellent views of the river, bridge and the old town on the other side. The tower also has a museum that presents exhibits about the past glories of Cordoba during the al-Andalus era by using wax figures of important leaders and philosophers, building models, Arab musical instruments, and audio guides to explain the achievements of the city.
Roman Bridge - The Roman bridge or Puente Romano has been renovated over the centuries but the grand pedestrian thoroughfare over the river provides a majestic entrance to the city along with the opportunity to to look at statues of the city's patron saints and the remnants of waterworks once used by the Moors to supply the city.
La Mezquita - La Mezquita is a huge complex with courtyards, gardens, orange groves and building which became the defining landmark for the city mostly because of its architectural and engineering features. It stands at the center of the city closely surrounded by shops, restaurants, and palaces so it can be difficult to appreciate the enormity of the structure until you get inside. La Mezquita rivals the Church of Notre Dame in Paris and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul for its grandeur and architectural achievements. One distinctive feature is the 856 candy stripe arches which support the building as well as its bell tower and skylights. They provide a visual spectacle that is unforgettable. Visitors also marvel at the grand the intricate workmanship of the interior prayer halls and domes. Just when you think you have seen it all, there is a real surprise. Built within the walls of the original La Mezquita mosque is a huge Christian cathedral known as the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption. It was constructed in 1523 by King Carlos V after the reconquest of all of Spain by the Catholic monarchies. The silver altar, priceless mahogany woodwork and artistry of these Christian structures and paintings is impressive, but it seems confusing and out of place in these surroundings.
Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos - The Alcazar fortress constructed in 1328 AD also served as a palace for the Christian monarchs who ruled at Cordoba after the reconquest. King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella lived there for a time prior to the conquest of Granada and discussed Columbus' explorations with him at the site. Later it served as a prison and the headquarters of the church inquisition. While the ruins consist mostly of walls, towers, and courtyards, and gardens, the historical importance and ominous feeling of the place make it an interesting place to stop.
Archeological and Ethnological Museum - The archeological museum in Cordoba is housed in a new building and features a collection of Roman mosaics and columns, Visigoth relics, prehistory artifacts, and some relics of the city's past under the rule of the Moors from Medina Azahara and other locations in the city.
Old Quarter - The city's Old Quarter is compact and best visited by walking around the neighborhoods to the north and west of the Mezquita. There you will find whitewashed houses with patios and courtyards on narrow streets along with a healthy mix of excellent restaurants, tapas bars, and cafes.
Medina Azahara - For centuries after being looted and dismantled in the 11th century, the palace complex at Medina Azahara was deserted and unexcavated. Now that it has been named a World Heritage Site, some portions of the palace have been reconstructed, a modern museum has been installed, and tours to this new attraction are increasing.