Danang: Gateway to the Interesting Destinations of Central Vietnam
Since Vietnam opened its doors to world travelers in the 1990s, many people have enjoyed the rapidly modernizing Ho Chi Minh City, the beautiful limestone formations of Haiphong Bay, and the historic appeal of Hanoi. But when Vietnam served as the host for an important meeting of the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation nations in 2017, the country chose its largest city in central Vietnam , Danang, to display itself to the world.
This provincial capital of 1.1 million people has long been a gateway to trade and foreign connections for the country. Today the region offers numerous attractions for visitors seeking to experience the culture, history, and future potential of this interesting country. Between the world-class resorts and beaches of its coastline, the food and ambiance of the nearby world heritage site of Hoi An, and the majesty of the 19th century imperial buildings and tombs of past emperors in Hue, Danang is a great place to spend a week exploring Vietnam and it's vibrant young population.
Danang
Danang came into prominence as a port city on the Han River during the 19th century because of its ready access to the South China Sea and the silting up of the Hoi An navigation channels. During the colonial era, French delegations seized the port from Vietnamese Emperor Tu Doc and later used its central location and resources to oversee their colonial interests in the region they called Cochinchina. By the 1960s, United States forces had replaced the French and turned the area into a naval base, air station and rest and relaxation center for weary GIs fighting in what the Vietnamese call the American War.
More than 50 years later, the 18 miles of beaches south of the city such as China Beach and Non Nuoc Beach remain popular places for international hoteliers to build resorts and for visitors from throughout the world to recreate. The legacy of the Vietnam War seems a distant memory particularly to the young Vietnamese population which is aware of the past but more focused on future growth and personal opportunities. The priority of economic growth is evident in the improving infrastructure of the roads, bridges, and modern buildings of Danang, and the numerous restaurants and shopping venues. Today, in a changing world, American sailors walk the streets of Danang again on shore leave from naval vessels invited to drop anchor by the Vietnamese government. They join with returning veterans from the United States and tourists from Asia and Australia to enjoy local attractions. The dining scene in town has become quite cosmopolitan with numerous French, American and Vietnamese restaurants to choose from.
One popular stop is the Marble Mountains located several miles inland from the shore. These limestone rock formations protrude from the landscape and contain numerous large caves, pagodas, Buddhist temples and statues. An interesting architectural feature of the city is its colorfully decorated and lighted bridges such as the Dragon Bridge. This bridge is closed on Saturday and Sunday nights for a show in which the bridge dragon exhumes water and fire to the delight of crowds along the river. Finally, the 200-foot-tall statue of the Lady Buddha located at the Linh Ung Pagoda north of the city on the Son Tra Peninsula is regarded as a place of reverence for local Buddhists. The white statue, located on the side of a mountain, looks out over the entire area and is visible across the bay from the city and the beaches.
Farther afield about an hour to the southwest of Danang is the World Heritage site of My Son. The Champas were a major power in the region beginning in the 4th century and are generally believed to have come from the island of Java in modern day Indonesia. My Son was their governmental and religious center and despite considerable damage from bombing in the Vietnam War, it contains some interesting, but not spectacular Hindu temples and ruins.
Hoi An
Hoi An served as an important center of trade and commerce for almost 500 years but was most prominent as an open city for merchants from China, Japan, Portugal, and the Netherlands during the 1700s and 1800s. It is renowned today for its Old Town area located mostly on the north bank of the Thu Bon River. This World Heritage site has many streets which are reserved to pedestrians and features classic buildings with architectural designs that reflect the diverse heritage of the various settlements. Several hundred historic buildings there managed to avoid the various wars and rebellions of the region and emerge intact. Today, they are either preserved as displays of their peoples’ cultural traditions or tastefully adapted to modern use as shops, restaurants, and museums. Visitors enter the ancient town by buying a ticket which entitles them to access the area plus enter five ticket only museums or special sites there.
Hoi An is widely known for its lanterns which are strung up just about everywhere as decorations. During the day, the artisans who build the lanterns from silk and bamboo open their workshops for guests , but it is at night that the district comes alive with what seems thousands of lanterns providing lighting along the streets and the waterfront. This lantern mania comes to a crescendo twice a month when there is Lantern Festival that draws large crowds. Another popular feature of Hoi An is the many assembly halls that were built by Chinese immigrants and merchants. These halls provided a place for present and future residents from their homeland to gather, pray, socialize, and maintain records. These halls often feature a courtyard, some shops, altars and sleeping areas. Perhaps the best recognized landmark in the old town is the Japanese covered bridge which dates to the 16th century and once connected the Japanese quarter with the Chinese quarter of the town. Regarded as a symbol of the city, it has some interesting carvings of mystical creatures and is surrounded by legends of spirits and dragons.
The last feature of Hoi An is the food offerings. Hoi An is the place where Asian Fusion has real meaning. The restaurants there provide bountiful plates of modern Vietnamese cuisine ranging from pho to steamed dumplings to duck, but other dishes clearly reflect the influence of French, Chinese and Japanese cuisine. You can hardly go wrong whether selecting a fine dining establishment or a takeaway meal, but we had a special meal at the renowned Green Mango.
Hue Imperial City
The city of Hue can be reached by a pleasant two-hour drive from Danang. Hue is a popular tourist destination because of the Imperial City and the impressive royal tombs of seven emperors located near the picturesque Perfume River. These emperors and their role in the country’s history has been somewhat controversial over the years because of the fierce independence of the Vietnamese people. For two millennia the country sought independence from foreign powers and periodically rebelled against the various Chinese dynasties, the Mongols, European traders, and French colonists who dominated the country from time to time. The first ruler of the Nguyen dynasty later known as Gia Long seized control of both the north and south parts of the country and declared Hue as the national capital in 1802. From the 1880s until 1945 when the emperor abdicated the throne, however, the French controlled most of the country and the emperors devolved into mere figureheads. Many imperial buildings were later damaged or destroyed from fighting during the Indochina War with the French and Vietnam War with the United States.
Today, there have been a gradual effort to revitalize and repair the buildings and grounds of the imperial age in Hue starting with the Citadel. This fortress located on the north side of the Perfume River was once dedicated to the civic, religious, governmental, and residential life and functions of the emperor and his family. Surrounded by a wall that covers six miles and an impressive main gate, the Citadel bears some resemblance to the imperial city in Beijing on a smaller scale. The Palace of Supreme Harmony used for special events retains much of its glory in the form of dozens of bright red and gilded columns, elaborate carvings of dragons and other imperial symbols, and an elevated throne. The most impressive remnant of the Forbidden Purple City where the royal family lived is an elaborately painted long corridor connecting the royal theater and the royal library which provides a comfortable place to cool off and take in the grandeur of this once powerful residence.
Ironically, once of the best preserved and most ornate structures remaining from the imperial age is the mausoleum of an unpopular emperor, Khai Din, who died while in his forties in 1925. Constructed on several levels and built into a hillside several miles away from the Citadel, this tomb was a combination of European architecture and Vietnamese designs. The platform outside his tomb features several dozen terra cotta guards and elephants who watch over his grave and are a favorite site for pictures and posing. Inside, the tomb is brightly colored with paintings, decorations and a gold plated grave.
Another popular activity in Hue is to take a ride on a dragon boat down the Perfume River to see some other traditional buildings and tombs. One site worth docking at is the Thien Mu Pagoda, a seven story Buddhist tower which dates to 1601. Throughout the centuries, the pagoda complex has continued to serve as a monastery and as a refuge from the vicissitudes of politics. It is also known for the huge 4400-pound bronze bell which can be heard for miles.