Argentina was sparsely populated in the 16th and 17th centuries by indigenous natives and Spanish colonists. In the 18th and 19th centuries, immigrants from other European countries followed. During the formative years of the nation, the grassy and fertile plains known as the pampas that extend for seven hundred miles from the Atlantic Ocean to the Andes Mountains was a frontier region. The agricultural and ranching potential of the region soon attracted gaucho cowboys who like their contemporaries in the American West were independent minded and thrived in the wide-open spaces of the region. Nevertheless, the vast land in these areas eventually fell under the control of wealthy aristocratic families and cattle barons. They established large ranch estates called estancias and provided the economic activity to support small towns throughout the region.

Gauchos hold a romantic place in the hearts and minds of Argentinians. Their image as expert riders, dressed in boots, berets, and wide trousers, singing and roasting meat around a campfire has endured for generations. One of the quintessential communities preserving the legacy of these ranches and gauchos is the picturesque town of San Antonio de Areco. Both native Argentinians and tourists from abroad flock to the area to visit the town and experience a day or two of life at the popular estancias there. We were able to spend a full day exploring this region with a guide and enjoyed learning more about their activities, food, and culture. 

Spending A Day at an Estancias

There are dozens of estancias in and around San Antonio de Areco which have established day tours so groups of visitors can explore the property and see the gauchos at work and at play. Some of the best-known ranches are Estancia La Bamba, Estancia El Ombu, and El Rosario de Areco. A typical itinerary for a visit would include the following activities:

• Welcome- Guests arriving at a ranch are usually greeted with warmth, refreshments, and music as if they were relatives arriving for a holiday.

• Tour of the Property- Guests are shown around the grounds on foot or by carriage ride to see the ranch in action.

• Barbecue Lunch- A traditional Argentinian barbecue lunch featuring plenty of meat and local delicacies.

• Horsemanship Display- Gauchos love to demonstrate their riding skills and exhibit their fine horses. Their speed, precision and artistry are amazing, and one can expect everything from polo tricks to contests among the riders. 

• Music and Dancing Show- Just as people from the American West enjoy country music and dancing, gauchos and ranch hands like to play and sing traditional music from the pampas and express themselves through dancing. A choreographed show is usually presented after the barbecue.

• Horseback Ride- People interested in saddling up are often able to take a group horseback ride around the grasslands with a guide.

• Crafts and Foods- Ranches required skilled craftspeople to make saddles, gaucho clothes, boots, housewares, and food for the operation of the ranch. Most estanbicas have a general store where these authentic wares can be purchased. 

Enjoying the Traditional Colonial Streets of San Antonio de Areco

While located only seventy miles from Argentina’s modern capital, the small city of San Antonio de Areco and its 20,000 inhabitants represent a different era. By preserving stately colonial buildings and cobblestone streets, and continuing the traditions and festivals of the gauchos, the city has retained an authentic atmosphere of the pampas that visitors enjoy. Some of the places that people stop at are:

• Museums and Silver Shops- San Antonio de Areco has been designated as a “city of historical interest” by the Argentine government. That reputation is supported by the Museum Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Guiraldes, which is dedicated to preserving local traditions and customs including the artworks of its namesake, and by the Museum de Plateria Draghi which displays the renowned silverworks of the region’s artisans.

• Outdoor Landmarks- One landmark most often visited is the Puente Viejo Bridge for pedestrians and horses which crosses the River Areco. Another landmark is the main square which is a great place for taking in the flavor of the town. With ample benches and shade trees for relaxing, the Plaza Ruiz de Areliano is the gateway to local shops, bars and restaurants where working cowboys and day trippers gather to eat and drink together.

• Chocolate Shops- Chocolate is a local specialty in the area and shops such as The Copper Pot and The Chocolate Factory serve hot chocolate and affajores biscuits filled with choclate.

• Festivals- The town comes alive with activity each year in November for two weeks when the Festival de la Tradition is held. People from all over the pampas flock to the city to show off their skills on horseback or other traditional cultural Criello activities such as dance, folk music, and crafts.