Hiking The Deserted Takaouchte Beach Of Morocco’s Atlantic Coast To Sidi Mbarek Falls
What is It – Morocco has an extensive coastline along the Atlantic Ocean that runs for approximately 1440 miles from Tangier in the north through the Western Sahara region all the way to Mauritania in the south. There are some large cities along the shore such as Rabat, Sale, Casablanca, and Safi, but the most popular seaside destinations for relaxation and entertainment are Essaouira and Agadir. The coastline between those tourist locations features a long stretch of deserted beaches and villages with only a few resorts. However, it has developed into a quiet haven for surfers, hikers, and water sports enthusiasts.
The area south of Essaouira has much to offer for visitors looking to exercise, explore the countryside, and sample the local lifestyle. The seaside there developed an exotic mystique in the sixties and seventies from the presence of European hippies and visits by renowned musicians like Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger. Today, companies based in Essaouira offer excursions ranging from hiking to horseback riding, dune busting to camel riding, or trips to local marketplaces and Berber homes. I wanted to explore the area and found an interesting four-hour trek offered by Be-in-Nature Tours. A booking was quickly confirmed by email for a hike.
Enjoying a Walk along the Atlantic Coast
On a comfortable fall afternoon, the guide met me at our riad in Essaouira and his driver brought us down the coast to a deserted inland section of the road high on a hill. The surrounding landscape was stark with few houses in sight. . There was a small mountain to the east and a deep ravine running westward towards the ocean. With a small pack and a walking stick, we headed off down the hill through a dusty field with argan trees. There were a few animal tracks visible but no signs of human activity. After twenty minutes of walking the terrain shifted to a series of hilly dunes with soft sand. Crossing the dunes required more effort but the sea was now in sight.
Arriving on the wide beach and looking at the water, I felt completely alone with nature. There were no umbrellas, boardwalks or boats to be seen. The waves were gentle that day but strong surf is also common along the Moroccan coast of the Atlantic. After taking in the scenery, we walked south on flat sand up the beach towards the Sidi Mbarek Falls, a seasonal watercourse that runs to the sea. There was no garbage on the beach and surprisingly few shells or seaweed. Just the deep tracks of a solitary horse and rider. It is a good place for camaraderie and storytelling.
After walking a mile or two, it was time to turn inland and begin climbing the hill. Soon, the dunes turned to gravel and a wide ravine appeared. This ravine contained a series of rock formations that sometimes convey water down to the sea. On this day after years of drought, the stream was a trickle and the pools on the slope were dry and brown. Nevertheless, Mbarek Falls is an interesting geological formation that enlivens the desolate landscape of the hillside.
The final stop on the hike was to visit the white house of a Berber family above the Mbarek Falls. Like many traditional dwellings, the house has a strong gate and a center courtyard surrounded by rooms used for food preparation, sleeping, eating, and family gatherings. After being welcomed by the matriarch of the house and her son, we were served hot mint tea with sugar and bread with honey while sharing greetings and jokes. The refreshments gave us the sustenance to finish the hike by walking uphill the rest of the way to an air-conditioned car for the ride back to Essaouira.
Guide Services: Guide services are highly recommended for visiting Takaochte beach and Mbarek Falls. I was fortunate to read an article about Ottmane El Filali of Be-in-Nature Tours. His company specializes in hiking, trekking and other outdoor activities in the Essaouira area and the Marrakech-Safi region of Morocco. Ottmane has a bachelor’s degree in Geology and has been a certified guide with a focus on nature for ten years. In addition to local languages, he speaks English and French. We had an enjoyable time together on the hike and had interesting conversations about the outdoors and the local culture. The cost for the half day outing was quite reasonable.
Difficulty Level: Moderate difficulty. While the terrain is not steep or dangerous, the hike is entirely on open land with no shade. Strong legs are required to walk through the sand dunes.
When to Go: The coastal areas around Essaouira have mild temperatures throughout the year and little rainfall. There are high temperatures in the 70s from May to November and in the 60s during the rest of the year. Strong ocean winds blow along the shore on some days, so it is important to bring along appropriate layers of clothing for daily conditions.