Normandy Beaches and Allied Cemeteries Provide a Solemn Reminder of the Cost of Freedom
What is It – The invasion of Normandy by Allied forces commanded by American General Dwight Eisenhower in June 1944 was a critical event in World War II. By opening a new battle front in France against the Nazis, the German army was now forced to defend captured territory in the east against the advancing Soviet army, in the south against other Allied troops, and in the west. While fierce fighting would continue for more than a year in Europe, the Allies’ goal of winning the war and forcing the unconditional surrender of Germany was now within reach for the first time since 1939. The magnitude of the invasion and the heroism of the troops cannot be fully appreciated without visiting the beaches at Normandy and spending time at the American Cemetery and the museums and memorials in the region.
The fascinating story of the D-Day invasion has been told many times through Hollywood movies and television shows such as “Saving Private Ryan” and “Band of Brothers.” The plan to invade Europe using a combined force of American, British, Canadian, Free French, and other allied forces was known as “Overlord.” It had been planned for more than a year. Secrecy was imperative and considerable effort was made to divert the Germans’ attention and their troops to other locations along the English Channel to preserve the element of surprise.
Despite harsh weather that delayed the operation and coordination nightmares, a force of 135,000 men and 20,000 vehicles was brought over from England by sea and landed at Normandy beaches on the early morning of June 6, 1944. While beachheads were established at all five of the landing sites and initial casualties were less overall than anticipated, fighting at Omaha Beach and other places was brutal. Gradually over the next two months, the Allies captured all the key ports and cities on the Normandy peninsula and by late August 1944, the remaining German army was routed near the French city of Chambois bringing this critical phase of the war to a conclusion.
It is difficult to more than scratch the surface of the Battle of Normandy because of its broad scope and many sites involved. For this reason, most people will enjoy the experience best by visiting key sites and not trying to do too much in a short visit. One thing that the Normandy sites have in common is that they all treat the historic events and the soldiers involved in the battle with respect and solemnity. People who visit these places come away with a better understanding of why this group of Americans is often called the Greatest Generation for their sacrifices here and elsewhere for the nation.
Notable Sites - There are many interesting places to visit along Normandy beaches and the surrounding area. Each of them provides a distinct perspective on the experiences of the allied soldiers, the townspeople and the German defenders during the initial landing and the subsequent battle to control the region. For most visitors, the following four stops will provide a sufficient overview of the site.
Arromanches - The town of Arromanches located above the British target of Sword Beach towards the eastern end of the invasion zone is a good place to start a tour. While the village features typical tourist amenities and military equipment is scattered around for people to climb on, the activity which took place on the shore below was critical to the success of the battle. This was where British forces constructed an artificial structure recommended by Winston Churchill known as Mulberry Harbor and installed pre-assembled docks for the delivery and landing of massive amounts of military equipment. By 4:00 p.m. on June 6th, after a long day of fighting, tanks began rolling ashore to secure the town and advance inland.
Viewing the remnants of the Mulberry Harbor by the shore helps visitors visualize the events which took place here. In addition, there is an interesting museum called the Arromanches Cinema 360 which presents a nineteen-minute film called “Normandy’s 100 Days”, covering the entire operation in the round on a series of nine screens.
La Pointe du Hoc - There are still places along the coastline around Normandy where remnants of the Atlantic Wall fortifications built by the Germans can be seen. Heavy bombardment from ships and aircraft took place in advance of and simultaneously with the landings. While damage was done, a considerable number of German emplacements remained intact to hinder the landing soldiers or fire heavy arterially at the ships.
La Pointe du Hoc was one area where the Germans had built fortifications, installed guns, and operated a radar station. Because of the 100-foot-high sheer cliffs rising from the narrow beach here and the rocky summit above, little effort was made by the Germans to protect the seaweed side of this location. Nevertheless, a group of approximately 300 U.S. Army Rangers launched a surprise attack on this location in darkness by scaling the cliffs and fighting their way through the German fortifications. This is considered by military historians one of the most heroic and daring episodes of D-Day and is popular location to visit. People are struck by the landscape there which includes not only the cliffs and huge bomb craters, but the remnants of the German gun emplacements destroyed by bombing or the Rangers’ assault.
Omaha Beach - An estimated 4,000 of the Americans killed or wounded during the Normandy battle fell in the difficult assault across the wide and circular shaped Omaha Beach located on the western side of the landing area. Large machine gun and mortar emplacements placed along the shoreline kept heavy pressure on landing craft and American soldiers coming ashore. Eventually 34,000 troops made it off the beach and began to consolidate their positions by the end of the invasion day.
It is stunning to see the beach at low tide and understand the vast open area which the invading troops had to cross under fire while simultaneously climbing over or under barbed wire, booby traps, mines, and other barriers placed by the Germans. The impossible challenge they faced, and the ultimate success of this assault is something which any witness will ponder.
American Cemetery and Memorials - On the ridge above Omaha Beach is the 170-acre American Cemetery and memorials to the 9,387 soldiers buried there. Each soldier is marked by an identical white cross set out in precise rows across a resplendent green lawn and each cross contains the name, rank, date of death and home state of the deceased. The Cemetery also contains a reflecting pool and a large marble memorial with scenes of the battle and the names of 1,557 missing soldiers who remains were never found.
In visiting the cemetery, it is useful to begin with a walk through the Visitors Center which is operated by the American Battle Monuments Commission. It contains exhibits retelling the events leading up to the battle and thereafter presented in the words and letters of the soldiers that fought there. There are videos shown in small theaters which bring these experiences to life including an interview with General Eisenhower. It is recommended that American visitors try to schedule their day to leave enough time for the Cemetery experience. Time spent there is likely to create unexpected emotions for some people, but many will find these reflections more fulfilling than time spent in souvenir shops or cafes.
When to Go - The coastal areas of Normandy are known for their occasional fog, comfortable summers, and cold, rainy winters. A visit there between mid-May and mid-October will encounter temperate conditions in the high sixties and low seventies with slightly less rain, but Europeans traditionally try to travel in July and August so watch for crowds during those times.
How to Get Here - The site can be experienced as part of an extended trip that continues to the medieval monastery and tidal island at Mont Saint-Michel, but other people visit Normandy as a long day trip from Paris by taking a bus tour or using a private guide. Some cruise ships dock at Le Havre to the north and offer excursions to Normandy as an alternative to visiting Paris for the day or as a post cruise selection.
