Odessa's Cosmopolitan Spirit Provides Hope for Ukraine's Future
Ukraine has been at the center of regional rivalries for 600 years. At various times, parts of the country have been annexed, partitioned or claimed by the Lithuanian empire, the Polish state, Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Russian Empire and the Soviet Union. Since the late 1700s, Russia’s efforts to control key ports on the Black Sea and local culture have been met with varying degrees of resistance by the Ukrainian people. Although 93% of the population voted to establish the independent nation of Ukraine in 1991, the Russian Federation’s military intervention on behalf of separatists in Eastern Ukraine and its annexation of the Crimean Peninsula in 2014 shows that traditional tensions continue to affect Ukraine’s economic development and political independence.
Odessa’s European Style
The martial spirit and independent tradition of the Ukrainian people survives in modern Ukraine. One place which may ultimately determine the future path of the Ukraine is the city of Odessa. Located in southwestern Ukraine on the Black Sea, Odessa is Ukraine’s third largest city with a population of over 1 million and is the country’s largest port. The city serves as an important hub for transportation, oil refining, shipbuilding and commerce. Although a majority of the population are ethnic Ukrainians, the city has a cosmopolitan tradition, and a local Russian dialect is commonly spoken there.
“Gilded age amenities are complemented with outdoor cafes, bars and restaurants where people relax every afternoon.”
We visited Odessa and found it to be a very welcoming city with a predominantly European style. There are several features of the City which contribute to this feeling. The architecture of many buildings and the street layout of the downtown is distinctly Mediterranean with numerous cobblestone streets, pedestrian walkways and wide, tree lined boulevards. There seemed to be a well-manicured park or garden every ten blocks as you walk around the city. It is not surprising that Odessa was a favorite vacation spot for the Russian nobility during the time of the czars.
Today, these gilded age amenities are complemented with outdoor cafes, bars and restaurants where people relax every afternoon. Stores selling the latest technology products and branches of international banks contribute to the sense that this is a city looking to the future rather than the past. Odessa also seems to be a place that attracts young people from throughout the country who are seeking new opportunities.
Majestic Opera House
One popular attraction in Odessa is the majestic Odessa Opera and Ballet Theatre known for its ornate hall and acoustics. There are performances there almost every night which can range from a Gilbert and Sullivan musical to a Russian ballet to a Ukrainian folk singer. The ambience of the theatre makes for an enjoyable evening in any language. Another popular thing to do is to visit the Arkadia beach which unlike most of the region has a sandy shore instead of a rocky one. In addition to day trippers, tourists come to Odessa for spas, resorts, gaming, and strangely, introductions to local residents arranged by marriage brokers.
Finally, history buffs and outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy climbing or taking the funicular up the 192 limestone steps leading from the city pier up to the center of town. In a famous 1925 Soviet movie called “Battleship Potemkin”, the steps were fictionally portrayed as the location where the Russian Czar’s forces massacred hundreds of men, women and children merely for cheering on communist mutineers on a Russian navy destroyer. Then, as now, the challenge for Odessa seems to be how the Ukranian people can climb to a brighter future for their country.