Paestum’s Greek Temples Rival the Best in the Mediterranean – Paestum, Italy
What is It- When people think of Greek temples, the first vision that usually comes to mind is the Parthenon in Greece which is visible throughout the City of Athens from its commanding position on the Acropolis. The Parthenon is regarded by experts as an architectural marvel. In ancient times its columns were brightly painted and the metopes were decorated with friezes about great battles and mythological stories.
Nevertheless, one of the best places to see intact Greek temples and contemplate the wisdom of one of the world’s great civilizations is in Italy at the ruined city of Paestum located three miles inland from the Tyrrhenian Sea south of Salerno. Paestum remains relatively “undiscovered,” so visitors sometimes find they have the site to themselves. You can wander around and explore the temples and the other ruins at your pleasure without stress for three or four hours and still have time to visit the area’s nearby beaches or have a relaxing meal.
Paestum’s History - Paestum developed a unique culture over the centuries that combined Greek, Etruscan, and Roman traditions. The original Greek city at the location named Poseidonia was settled around 600 BC. The city generated considerable wealth from agriculture and trade activities and was an important community in the region from the fifth century BC to the third century BC. There was intense building activity during this period which included the construction of three large temples, urban streets, an agora, and an assembly hall. However, the Poseidonians chose to oppose Rome in an unsuccessful struggle for control of the Italian peninsula among several confederation of cities. This setback led to Roman control of the area and the renaming of the city as Paestum in 273 BC. A Roman road, a forum square, public amphitheater, and small temples dedicated to various Roman gods were soon added to the increasingly Latinized community.
The city enthusiastically supported the empire for the next few centuries. During the imperial age Paestum drifted into relative obscurity and by the Middle Ages the site was virtually abandoned. Consequently, the ruins of Paestum were unknown until Europeans interested in antiquities “rediscovered” the site and financed excavations there in the 1700s. In the Victorian age, a tradition developed among wealthy young Englishmen to travel throughout France and Italy after graduating from university while exploring the important sites of Western civilization in a rite of passage known as the Grand Tour. Most of those journeys included a stop at Paestum and today the ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Paestum Sites – Paestum remains easy to explore since only about sixty acres of the three-hundred-acre site are currently accessible to authorities for excavation and study. The site is pleasant to look at but the structures and artifacts there are unremarkable with two notable exceptions. First, the three temples of Paestum are spectacular to see because of their simple construction, structural integrity, site placement, workmanship, and coloring. Built about 2500 years ago, their red limestone columns and arches stand out from the surrounding grassy plain and sparkle brightly like gold in the sun. The largest and best-preserved structure known as the Temple of Neptune features six huge columns across the front and fourteen along the sides. The other two structures known as the First Temple of Hera and the Temple of Ceres are also impressive.
The second worthwhile feature of Paestum is the museum on the site. It displays interesting relics uncovered around the City including painted stone tombs showing scenes from the life of the deceased such as enjoying a cheerful party, diving into the ocean, and hunting wild animals.
Interesting Facts – One distinctive feature of Paestum is a pleasant family restaurant known as the Restaurante Nettuno located a few hundred feet from the historic zone. The restaurant has a perfect view of the temples from its air-conditioned veranda.
How to Get Here- Paestum is located about 90 minutes by car from the Naples Airport and 45 minutes by car from the city of Salerno via the E45 road. There is also a train that runs a dozen times each day between the Naples Centrale Station and the Paestum station which takes about 75 minutes and costs less than $16 per person for a roundtrip in a standard seat. The train station is a ten-minute walk from the archeological park entrance.
When to Go - The temperature in Paestum is excellent for a tour of the site from March through November. On summer days, the temperature can be in the 80s and in the late fall, rain is more frequent.