Palace Dining in India
What is It- Throughout India, there are numerous grand palaces which once served as the residences for sultans, maharajas, and princes of the many principalities which once existed in the country. A few royal families were able to retain their palaces, but many fell into ruin or were turned into museums. Over the past few decades, the government of India developed a program for selling or leasing the palaces to resort companies for the purpose of developing “heritage hotels” offering a luxury experience to guests while preserving the character of these historical treasures.
The ambience of sleeping or dining in a palace is a special experience and sometimes it is quite affordable. Here are several examples of how to enjoy a royal time:
Rambagh Palace in Jaipur
Originally used as a guesthouse and hunting lodge in the forest on the outskirts of Jaipur, Rambagh Palace became the residence of the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh around 1910. In succeeding years, numerous improvements were made such as adding courtyards, suites, and other amenities. Eventually, economic pressures forced them to convert the residence into a luxury heritage hotel in the 1970s. Operated by the Taj hotel chain, the Rambagh Palace Hotel became renowned for its extensive gardens, polo fields, elaborate cupolas and exotic carvings throughout the grounds. Sometimes, they even arrange a game of polo on elephant back for the guests. Inside, there are many choices for fine dining ranging from the chandeliered Suvarna Mahal formal ballroom to the casual Polo Bar or relaxing dining along the outside corridors in the Verandah Cafe.
One way to enjoy the hotel and see the grounds is to book a lunch in the Rajput Room which we did on a pleasant spring day. Decorated in a Rajput architectural style, service in the elegant dining room is provided by waiters wearing traditional palace garb. Prominently displayed is a striking portrait of Queen Gayatri Devi, who was once named the most beautiful woman in the world by Vogue in the 1940s. During the reign of her husband, the Queen entertained world dignitaries at the palace and her beauty, style and energetic persona created a new role model for Indian women. The food was outstanding for our meal. After several weeks without beef, I was pleased to find a buffalo steak filet mignon on the menu.
Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad
Another experience in palace dining is available at the Taj Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad which was used for decades as a residence for the Nizam’s extensive family and his many visitors. Visitors booking high tea, lunch or dinner at the dining room receive a tour of the Nizam’s former residence and the public areas of the hotel.
The high tea experience was interesting and quite filling. You can choose either traditional English food selections, Indian food, or both. The tea sandwiches, hors d’oeuvres and desserts are served in tiered trays with plenty of liquid refreshment. Tea can be taken either indoors with musical accompaniment or outdoors on a patio overlooking the city from atop the mountain where the palace is located.
Jag Mandir Palace on Udaipur’s Lake Pichola
Lake Pichola is surrounded by many luxury hotels with excellent views of the surrounding City Palace, the mountains, and the lake. But in the middle of the lake are two renowned establishments – the white Lake Palace hotel which appears to be floating on the surface, and the Jag Mandir Palace. Both palaces served as royal residences for the Maharana of Udaipur over the centuries.
The Jag Mandir Palace is frequently booked by tour groups but still offers a luxury experience. In addition, guests receive a private sunset boat cruise across the lake. Arriving at the palace, you are greeted by eight huge elephant statues and served a sumptuous buffet with multi-cuisine entrees. The specialty of the Jag Mandir appears to be weddings. Some weddings booked there by Indian families can go on for days with fireworks shows over the lake and numerous meals.
How to Get Here - The three cities of Jaipur, Hyderabad and Udaipur are generally reached by domestic flights from Mumbai or Delhi. However, there are international flights to Hyderabad from Dubai and London.
Cost - High tea with a tour of the Falaknuma Palace usually costs approximately $50-$60 per person which makes it an excellent way to spend three hours and get a small taste of the life of royalty. A formal lunch or light dinner at the Rambagh Palace will likely cost about the same. The Jag Mandir Palace buffet with boat ride is likely to cost slightly more than a $100 per person and you may need a dowry to book a wedding there.
