Pamukkale Thermal Springs & Cleopatra’s Pool – Denizli, Turkey
What Is It - Turkey is one of the world's greatest archaeological destinations that contains not only the historic city of Istanbul, but also well-preserved ruins of Greek, Lycian, Roman, and Byzantine cities, and natural wonders like Cappadocia and Pamukkale. Pamukkale is located on a mountainside north of the modern city of Denizli, several hours inland from popular tourist destinations and cruise ship stops like Kusadasi, Antalya, and Bodrum.
Viewed from a distance, Pamukkale looks like an out of place ski resort that stretches for miles on top of a mountain range. Once you arrive at this World Heritage Site, you realize it is a limestone hot springs containing travertine terraces, small waterfalls, and heated spring water. After you climb the smooth pathway (in your bare feet to avoid damaging the limestone) or take a tram to the visitor's center, you can wade in some of the pools and enjoy views of the mountain and the valley below. Very few American or British tourists visit Pamukkale, but those that do will share a memorable experience with locals and many visitors from Turkey, Russia, and Germany. It is one of Turkey’s most popular tourist attractions with more than 2 million visitors annually.
One of great attractions of Pamukkale is that its thermal warm waters, which are predominantly infused with dissolved calcium and carbon dioxide, are considered to be beneficial for the skin, the eyes, and a variety of ailments. How accurate are those claims? It is worth considering that the springs are adjacent to the ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis which include a large theater and numerous commercial baths. This large city was built by King Attalus of Pergamon around 200 BC, and for generations thereafter its “healing waters” were popular with the nobility of the Roman empire and later the Byzantine empire.
Cleopatra’s Pool Nearby
One of its most famous visitors to Pamukkale was Cleopatra. Mark Anthony reportedly built a sculpted pool for her to enjoy the waters next to a Roman Temple dedicated to the God Apollo. This was not an unusual practice during the Empire. Rome's wealthy citizens and Senators frequently built baths, gates, and theaters to show civic pride in their hometowns, or to attract support for business and political ambitions elsewhere. Mark Anthony ruled over a large area of the eastern Roman Empire in the chaotic period following the assassination of Julius Caesar in 44 BC. He and Cleopatra enjoyed considerable support in places like Hierapolis during their unsuccessful civil war with Octavius (who later became known as the Emperor Augustus Caesar).
Destroyed by time and earthquakes, Cleopatra's pool is today a series of connected ponds in which guests can swim among massive columns from Apollo’s temple which lay strewn along the bottom. The hot pool waters like the travertine terraces nearby are regarded as therapeutic by locals and devoted visitors from the near east. It is a worthwhile experience to wade in the pool for an hour or two after seeing the Pamukkale springs and trekking around the ruined city on the nearby hillside. There is a full-service locker room and café next to the pool where visitors can change, use the restroom, and purchase refreshments after enjoying the waters. You are required to bring your towel.
Interesting Facts - Hierapolis and Pamukkale became part of the Roman Empire when the King of Pergamon gifted all his possessions and cities to Rome in his will in 133 B.C. The City was damaged by earthquakes several times and then rebuilt by the Romans, but eventually two large ones in the 7 th and 14 th centuries rocked the region, covered most parts of the city with soil and limestone deposits, and eventually forced most of the inhabitants to desert the area. Entire sections of the ancient roads through the City remain uplifted from these tectonic events to this day.
How to Get Here - There are numerous non-stop flights from Istanbul to Denizli each day on Turkish Airlines for less than $100 round trip and the flight takes about an hour so planning an overnight excursion to the city and then taking a shuttle to the site or to your hotel is an excellent alternative. We traveled to Pamukkale with a driver on Route E87 from Antalya and it took about three hours. It takes about three and half hours to reach the site from Bodrum on Route D330 and two and a half hours to get there from Kusadasi on Route E87.
Where to Stay - We spent the night at a local boutique hotel called the Hotel Hal-Tur which provided a panoramic view of the mountain out of our rooftop suite, a comfortable room and swimming pool, and an excellent breakfast for less than $100. One should not expect all the comforts of home in the rural town, however, as the nearby roosters and morning call to prayer from the mosque started our day at the springs nice and early.
Cost - Adult admission to the hot springs and the ruins of Hierapolis is 60 Turkish Lira (approximately $8) with a separate admissions charge of up to 50 Turkish Lira to enter Cleopatra’s Pool and use a locker. Young children under eight are free.