The South African city of Durban is located in the province of KwaZulu-Natal roughly one thousand miles from Cape Town on the east coast of the country along the Indian Ocean. It is the third largest metropolitan area in South Africa with approximately four million residents. Durban has the largest commercial port in Africa and is also known for its waterfront entertainment district and many buildings with architecture featuring Victorian and art deco designs. The diverse culture of the city reflects its historical connections to Zulu tribes, Indian immigrants, and British colonists.  It is also the gateway to national parks and animal reserves that are frequented by the million or more visitors who come to see the city each year. 

BRIEF HISTORY OF DURBAN AND ITS PEOPLE

The Durban area was visited by Vasco da Gama in 1497 during his search for a sea route from Europe to India, and he named the surrounding area Natal which means “Christmas country” in Portuguese. Centuries later in 1824, traders from the Cape Colony charted the peninsula and designated it as Port Natal.  By 1834, a fort had been built in the area and a settlement was established with the consent of nearby Zulu King Shaka. The settlement was named Durban after Sir Benjamin D’Urban, the British governor of the Cape Colony. 

While British influence and trading interests dominated the economy and city life during the Victorian era, other groups soon became integral parts of Durban’s culture. First, in the late 1800s, thousands of men from India were forced or enticed to seek work in the Natal colony in the sugar industry and other trades. That immigration continued for several generations. Many of those workers remained in the Durban area living in separate communities and developing small businesses, farms, and doing other work. Today, close to a million people of Indian origin inhabit the area, creating a vibrant culture as well as religious, food and entertainment institutions reflecting their origins. 

Second, Zulu tribes traditionally occupied large areas in the northern and eastern sections of modern KwaZulu-Natal. Conflicts with Boer farmers and the British were frequent throughout the second half of the 19th century, and these disputes ultimately led to the destruction of the Zulu Kingdom and dispersal of its people. By the 1920s, many Zulu people became separated from their traditional lands. They found work in the diamond and gold mines of South Africa or moved to fast growing cities like Durban. Confined to communities for Bantu/African people and suffering other deprivations under apartheid, the Zulu people were later successful in achieving political power in South Africa after the establishment of free elections in 1994. Former South African President Zuma’s political party continues to receive substantial political support from Zulu voters and other citizens in the Durban area.       

The modern development of Durban can be attributed to the popularity of the harbor as a major commercial port, the growth of a large sugar production industry in the region, and the need to supply Johannesburg and other inland cities with raw materials, industrial equipment, and imported goods. Visited by more than five thousand ships each year, Durban handles sixty percent of the trade revenue for the country. Durban remains one of the key economic centers of the country and hopes to recapture the large tourism boom that took place in the region prior to 2020. 

Here are some of the most interesting things to do and places to see in and around Durban:

SAMPLE ATTRACTIONS OF THE GOLDEN MILE

Some of the city’s attractions are clustered along the colorfully painted and paved four-mile-long seaside promenade known as the Golden Mile. The wide promenade sits above the dunes and a sandy beach where waves from the generally warm waters of the Indian Ocean crash throughout the year. Durban has a temperate climate and boasts more than 300 sunny days annually. The promenade is an excellent place for biking, hiking, walking, picnicking and surfing, and is well patrolled by local police. 

The beach area supports many hotels, apartments, and restaurants throughout the year. Concerns have been raised in recent years about pollution and litter on the beach and the deterioration of some of the Golden Mile’s infrastructure since the 1990s. However, local authorities are working to address those issues and support the following attractions which are important to the city’s status as a major destination:

Suncoast Casino- The Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World is located on the North Beach of the Golden Mile and offers slot machines, table games, restaurants, private pools and beach areas.

uShaka Marine World – One of the largest amusement parks in Africa, Marine World was opened in 2004 and its aquarium displays all kinds of animals and ocean species. In addition, the park includes a Wet n Wild waterpark with slides and rides, a reptile and snake park, and an open-air mall with local shops and food vendors.

Canal Waterway and Park – The south beach area of the promenade connects to a residential and office complex located on a pleasant inland canal. Residents and visitors can relax along the banks of the canal or take a ride on a gondola or kiddie boat there too. 

EXPLORE THE LEGACY OF DURBAN’S INDIAN POPULATION

Two different places to sample the legacy of Durban's Indian population are: 

Victoria Street Marketplace - The Victoria marketplace is a large bazaar that began in 1870 and developed over the decades as a place for Indian merchants and other Asian peoples to sell their wares to each other and the rest of Durban’s diverse population. All kinds of goods can be found in the several hundred stalls there including food, spices, crafts, jewelry, fabrics and clothing, household items, and antiques. Over time the location has become so popular that the facility has been expanded to include nine different types of markets each dedicated to different kinds of products along with stalls offering items from the heritage of the Zulu nation. The dome-like exterior of the marketplace remains a reminder of the dominant heritage of the merchants at the location.

Gandhi’s Phoenix Settlement in Inanda- The inspiring legacy of Mahatma Gandhi in promoting the independence of India, developing nonviolence as an instrument of political and social change, and inspiring other movements around the world is well known. Few people remember, however, that after becoming a British barrister he lived in an Indian community near Durban for 21 years. Through his personal experiences and social activity in South Africa, Gandhi developed the philosophies and leadership that he carried to India. People interested in understanding these connections can visit a small museum located in Inanda close to downtown Durban. The museum commemorates the communal area he established there in 1904 called the Phoenix Settlement which included several homes, his own cottage, a clinic, a school, and a printing press for his newspaper called Indian Opinion. 

The site is presently run by the Inanda Tourism office. The exhibits feature a replica of the house in which he lived with his family, conducted his legal practice, and became an activist, along with the Phoenix Interpretation Centre where lectures are given.  The house contains displays and pictures of the young Gandhi along with reports and news clippings about his experiences and political activities in South Africa. It also shows how his personal views and teachings evolved over time creating a model for other civil rights leaders around the world including Martin Luther King Jr and Nelson Mandela. During my visit there, I was fortunate to meet with the curator and see the Kasturba Primary School named after Gandhi’s wife. Local children from the struggling neighborhoods nearby are educated because of the inspiration of Gandhi's family at the school.

VISIT THE BEACHFRONT COMMUNITY OF UMHLANGA

One interesting destination located several miles north of the city along the shore of the North Coast is the suburban community of Umhlanga. Originally home to fishermen, the area began to develop into a resort location in the 1930s when the stylish Oyster Box Hotel was constructed above the town lighthouse on Umhlanga rocks. A century later the area remains popular among beach goers and vacationers. The waterfront includes a two-mile long promenade which runs past both sandy beaches and rocky areas, a pier known for its whale bones, and expensive hotels, restaurants and time shares. In addition, the suburb has expanded into a business and shopping center place with office facilities, malls, and local shops.

EXPLORE OTHER INTERESTING LOCATIONS

Depending on your interests and tastes, Durban has other interesting locations to explore during a visit to the city. These include:

Moses Mabhida Stadium-   In 2010, the city completed construction of an impressive stadium with a modern design that was used for the World Cup soccer tournament. It continues to serve as a popular venue for rugby, soccer, cricket, other sports events, and concerts. Visible from throughout the city and close to the Golden Mile promenade, the stadium seats 56,000 spectators. It is known for its 344-foot-high span arch which holds up the roof and seating which provides clear lines of sight for all fans. It has also been turned into an attraction and thrill ride for visitors. One feature is a funicular SkyCar that transports visitors to the highest point of the arch at 750 feet above the pitch for views of the city. Another is a staircase called the Adventure Walk with 550 steps you can take to walk to the top. Finally, there is a bungee-like attraction called the Big Rush Swing which allows you to descend from the top towards the ground and then swing out over the field in a 720-foot arc. 

Durban Botanic Gardens- The Durban Botanic Gardens were begun under British administration in 1849 and have been enjoyed by city residents ever since. Run by a trust, they are Africa’s oldest surviving gardens and focus on plant conservation and education. Among the many impressive collections found in the garden oasis are cycads, palms, and orchids.