Teotihuacan - Mexico

What is it - Many travelers have heard of the Aztec, Mayan or Toltec people that inhabited Mexico prior to the arrival of Spanish explorers and conquistadors in the 15th century, or perhaps have visited one of their historic sites on the Yucatan peninsula or in Mexico City. However, the well-preserved pyramids and other ruins of the huge city of Teotihuacan located about 30 miles north of Mexico City are less well-known despite the key role which this metropolis played in the development of Mesoamerican religion, culture, and architecture from around 100 BC to 600 AD.

Was Teotihuacan abandoned, conquered, or perhaps supplanted by these later empires just as the Greek city states and Carthage were eventually displaced by Rome? There are many different theories but the legends and uncertainty surrounding Teotihuacan created a sense of mystery which even caused Aztec rulers to take pilgrimages there hundreds of years later. They called it “the place where the gods were created”. The uncovering and reconstruction of Teotihuacan took place sporadically during the 20th century and the ruins only became a tourist attraction around the time of the Mexico City Olympics in 1968 when the government made a major effort to celebrate the country’s ancient heritage. Today, as many as 4 million people a year visit this World Heritage Site and it has become the subject of increasing academic inquiry and excavation by experts seeking to learn it secrets.

There are some features of Teotihuacan which make it interesting and a bit unusual when compared to other Mesoamerican sites. The city is laid out in a grid pattern on relatively flat land in a valley that stretches for miles in each direction.  The main concourse which runs roughly north to south for distance of a mile and a half is known as the Avenue of the Dead. This 150-foot-wide avenue was designed to be a main thoroughfare for the city since it leads to or past many ceremonial and public buildings. 

Huge Pyramids

Two of the most striking buildings along the avenue are the Pyramid of the Moon at the northern end and the Pyramid of the Sun located on the east side of the avenue and facing west. Both huge pyramids are believed to have been completed and improved several times between 150 to 400 AD. The pyramids would probably be classified as step pyramids in Egypt since they are roughly square at ground level and then rise to the heavens through a series of sharply ascending staircases which level off at several terraces located along the way. The Pyramid of the Sun is larger. It rises approximately 225 feet above grade with a base on all four sides roughly the length of two and a half football fields. Scholars think there may have been a temple or other ceremonial structure on the top of each pyramid. Constructed out of mud bricks and a red volcanic rock known as tezontle, there may have been painted stucco on the outside facing. 

Unlike many of the Mayan pyramids which have now been placed off limits to tourists, visitors can generally climb the west side of the Pyramid of the Sun although the experience is not for the faint-hearted. When we visited some years ago, there was no chain, rope, or wall to hold on to in ascending or descending the 248 steps. It can take 60 minutes to reach the top and there is no shade. In addition, the pitch and roughness of the stairs can be intimidating on the way down. That does not mean you will not see local boys and girls gliding past you as we did.

Animated Gods and Possible Sacrifices

There is another area along the avenue known as the Citadel which is believed to have been the residence of priests or other dignitaries. There is also evidence throughout the complex of the worship of several gods including a spider god  which may have been the principal deity of the city, the rain guard known Tlaloc, and a feathered serpent god similar to the Aztec Quetzalcoatl. 

One popular site for visitors known as the Temple of Quetzalcoatl is a ceremonial platform from which statues of several gods protrude with animated expressions. Based on chambers uncovered beneath the temple and recent discovery of groups of bodies of bound people nearby, the temple area has been identified as a likely place for religious ceremonies, public gatherings and possibly sacrifices.

Researchers are still working to understand the history of Teotihuacan. Several interesting concepts have emerged from their analysis. First, this was a large city of as many as 100,000 people which may have had a multicultural population. It is clear from other locations around Mesoamerica that Teotihuacan had extensive trade contacts and its merchants and workshops generated considerable wealth from mining and processing obsidian into unique tools and weapons. Second, there were large numbers of well-built homes and even multi-level buildings stretching out in many directions from the city. One building known as the Palace of Quetzalpapalotl contains some colored murals which are also worth visiting.

The situation or factors which led to the demise of Teotihuacan around 600 AD are generally unknown. Some of the mystery of Teotihuacan has been created by the complete absence of any statutes, paintings or carvings relating to city leaders, battles, or the history of the city.  

There is some evidence of fire, but famine, disease, military defeat, or environmental calamity are also possible causes.  In any event, a great mystery continues to surround the legend of Teotihuacan. 

Interesting Facts - Teotihuacan is estimated to have had a population of as many as 200,000 people at its height in the 4th or 5th century. The only other cities in the world of that size at the time were Rome, Constantinople, and Xi’an, China which was known as Chang’an at the time. 

How to Get Here - Mexico City is served by Aero Mexico and several American carriers including Delta, American Airlines and United. Once you arrive, it is a tedious drive out to Teotihuacan by taxi or bus, so booking a reputable private tour guide at your hotel or using a group tour to visit Teotihuacan is recommended if that works for your budget.

When to Go - The summers are getting hotter in Mexico City and the early fall can be rainy, so the best months to visit Teotihuacan are from March to June. However, the temperature is not too cold for sightseeing on most winter days if you dress in layers and the crowds are smaller, so a winter visit is worth considering as well. 

Cost -  Admission to Teotihuacan costs about $5 per adult. Most group excursions with transportation, a guided tour and perhaps a meal booked from Mexico City will cost less than $100 per person for a full day and possibly less than $50 per person for a half day visit.