The Traveling American

View Original

The Hills of Sorrento

WHAT IS IT:   Located high on a cliff, the town of Sorrento provides an excellent base to visit the ruins of Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius, the Isle of Capri and the entire Amalfi Coast. That can be done by using the local ferries or driving along the narrow roads that cling to the hillside. One of my best memories of Sorrento was walking over the mountain to the inland villages of Sant’Agata and Massa Lubrense, and then returning along the coast road on an air-conditioned bus.

The stone trails above Sorrento were originally built to connect the villages of the region and provide thoroughfares for farmers and merchants to bring their wares to market by donkey. Today, those trails provide some spectacular views of the Bay of Naples to hikers willing to endure switchbacks up the side of the mountain. Fortunately, the shade from the numerous lemon orchards along the way provide some shade and visual stimulation. At one point in my journey, I heard footsteps behind me on the trail and was surprised to see an elderly Italian woman dressed in black following me. She cheerfully said “bonjourno” and briskly passed me while carrying a large bag of groceries back to her village. It was then that I realized that strenuous walks are a great form of lifelong exercise.

INTERESTING FACTS: The trail system above Sorrento continues along the Amalfi Coast and experienced hikers often travel all the way to Positano or Amalfi by foot. There are 110 kilometers of marked trails in the area which are a source of pride for the community.

GUIDE SERVICES: Guide services are not required for the walk, but using a hiking service to choose your route and point out natural and historic landmarks along the way would enhance the experience. In addition, the trail markers are confusing and I had to retrace my steps several times.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL:  Moderate.

WHEN TO GO: The weather in Sorrento is pleasant during the spring and fall but the heat and sun can be oppressive during July and August.

HOW TO GET HERE:   Sorrento can be reached by ferry or by car in a half hour from Naples or you can take the Circumvesuviana train from various places around the Bay.  There are several trail entrances to the trail system above the Piazza Tasso square in Sorrento.

WHERE TO STAY: There are numerous small hotels or luxury properties available in Sorrento for travelers and hikers to enjoy.