With Montevideo and More Uruguay is Worth Remembering
The South American country of Uruguay is a place that many people have heard of but few people from the United States have visited. Uruguay is bordered on the west by the wide Rio de la Plata which leads to Buenos Aires and Argentina, while the country’s east coast faces the rougher waters of the South Atlantic and borders on Brazil. The size of the state of Washington with a population of only 3.5 million people, Uruguay is known for its expansive ranches and farms, the metropolitan capital of Montevideo, the cosmopolitan beach area of Punta del Este, and several well-preserved colonial towns.
Diverse history
The colonists and conquerors from Portugal and Spain who altered the history of South America during the 16th and 17th century paid little attention to the region at first because of the absence of precious metals and small population of indigenous peoples. Eventually, however, the Portuguese established a settlement on the river near Buenos Aires at Colonia de Sacramento in 1680 and the Spanish established a major port farther south in Montevideo several decades later. Nevertheless, intrigue by Spanish and Brazilian factions to dominate the area led to conflicts which were not resolved until Great Britain mediated a treaty establishing Uruguay as an independent country and securing freedom of international navigation throughout the Rio de la Plata in 1828.
The next 150 years saw the population of Uruguay grow to over 3 million residents. More than 85% of the population of modern Uruguay report their ancestry as being Spanish, Italian, or other European, with small percentages identifying their ethnicity as mestizos or black. Prior to the 1970s, political power swayed between citizens who supported the more conservative Blanco "white" party which controlled the ranches and rural areas of the country, and the Colorado "red” party which was based in Montevideo. At the same time, the economy expanded, and government promoted the development of key industries and infrastructure. In comparison to many other Latin American nations, Uruguay appeared to have succeeded in establishing a working constitutional system that produced free elections and transfers of power in the bicameral legislature and the presidency.
By 1973, most Uruguayans took great pride in the nation’s relative stability, the development of a middle class there, and the emergence of an economy that produced a standard of living equal to all other countries of South America. Consequently, a pronounced economic decline coupled with the intervention of the military in domestic affairs during the succeeding decade was a traumatic event for Uruguay and remains a source of conflict and controversy today. Although free elections were later restored, business improved, and tourism now attracts 3 million visitors per year, it seems like questions linger about the role of government in the economy and the responsiveness of the political system to the needs of the people.
Places to Enjoy in Uruguay
There is plenty to do during a visit to Uruguay including the following activities:
Montevideo - The capital city of Montevideo is undergoing a period of revitalization and modernization. Most tours of the city include a stop at the ornate Parliament building and the famous Palacio Salvo apartment building. Both structures were built in the early 20th century and are known for their distinctive architecture. The Palacio Salvo is located at the Independence Plaza which also displays an impressive monument to Jose Artigas, a hero of Uruguay's independence movement, who is honored there with a large statue and a perpetual honor guard. Another popular place is the waterfront promenade known as La Rambla. This 13-mile-long road and walkway provides a gateway to the entire city. It passes by the port, some beaches, fancy suburbs and numerous restaurants, clubs and cafes fronting on the river. People flock to the area for walks, biking, or watching the beautiful sunsets over the water.
Food and culture options also abound in Montevideo. One fancy marketplace with a wide selection of foods, the Mercado Agricola, was recently renovated and attracts people of all ages. In addition, there are many barbecue restaurants located by the docks in an area known as the Mercado del Porto which competes with the best beef places in Argentina. Montevideo also takes great pride in its Carnival festival which lasts for 40 days beginning in January each year. There is even a Carnival Museum which presents decades of memorabilia, costumes, and photos of the event. For those seeking a more refined experience, the Teatro Solis classical theater presents everything from symphonies to tango performances.
Punta del Este - Punta del Este is a former seaside village which evolved during the 1980s into an upscale hangout for the rich and famous of the Uruguay and neighboring countries during the summer season from December to February. Located on a peninsula with the Playa Brava surf beach of the Atlantic on one side and the calmer waters of the Playa Mansa of the Rio de la Plata on the other, there is no shortage of things to do in this resort town. In addition to public beaches, there are numerous beach clubs where lounges, food and water sport services are available. Most nightlife activity focuses on the main boulevards separating the beaches from the hotels, restaurants, clubs, and cafes of the local scene such as Avenida Gorlero. In recent years, the scene has shifted increasingly to some of the nearby villages such as Jose Ignacio and La Barra.
One notable attraction about ten miles west of Punta del Este on the shore road is Casapueblo. This surreal building located on the water and built into the hillside looks has a white stucco Mediterranean exterior and numerous scalloped terraces. It is both a museum dedicated to the life and work of Uruguayan artist Carlos Vilaro and an operating hotel resort. Vilaro’s gallery and workshops are open for public viewing and is a popular stop for day trips from Montevideo. After arriving at the beach in Punta del Este, many people enjoy another quirky piece of art known as La Mano. This huge sculpture by a Chilean artist consists of five fingers partially emerging form the sand and is located at parada 4 on the Playa Brava.
Colonia del Sacramento - Another popular day trip for visitors to Buenos Aires or Montevideo is the colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento. While this Spanish outpost on the river declined in prominence with the rise of Montevideo, it retained its colonial character. Today, people enjoy walking around the old town’s cobblestone streets and visiting the historic buildings such as the moated Spanish fort or the old lighthouse. Cafes and shops complete the experience.
Uruguay has a lot to offer for travelers seeking to add three to seven days to a trip to Argentina or Brazil or taking one of the many cruises that run from Rio de Janiero to Buenos Aires during the winter months. There is a nine hour direct flight to Montevideo from Miami on American Airlines year round and both Montevideo and Punta del Este are short 45-minute flights from Buenos Aires on domestic airlines.