Apostle Philip’s Tomb Uncovered at Hierapolis Provides Inspiration and Adventure
What is it: Hierapolis and other regions in southern Turkey such as Galatia, Phrygia and Lycia were at the heart of the areas proselytized by Jesus' apostles and later by Paul in first century. It has been long accepted by historians that the apostle Philip settled late in his life in Hierapolis with his family, preaching and healing to residents and the many visitors to the City's springs and spas.
“With that, he lifted up the tape and motioned me to visit the tomb and take pictures of the tomb and the surrounding courtyard.”
Some reports indicate that Philip was eventually crucified upside down by the Roman procounsel there after Philip converted his wife to Christianity. Several centuries later, when the now Christian Eastern Roman Empire ruled the region, church leaders built a spectacular octagon-shaped church high on the mountainside above Hierapolis to honor Philip using Byzantine arches and travertine stone from Pamukkale. This Martyrion of St. Philip and the tomb there were visited by pilgrims for several hundred years until frequent earthquakes and the decline of Constantinople left the City in ruins and the tomb lost to antiquity.
Just prior to my second visit to Hierapolis and Pamukkale in 2011, the archaeology world was excited by reports that an Italian professor had finally found the tomb of the martyred apostle and a Byzantine courtyard on a hillside beneath the church. Interested in the find, I visited Hieropolis which is adjacent to Pamukkale, and set off up the mountain through the ruins of the City towards the location of the dig. Along the way, I talked with a young boy who seemed to be walking aimlessly around the mountain. After a long climb with no other tourists in sight, I came to the excavation zone which was blocked off with police tape and much to my surprise guarded by a single Turkish soldier with a machine gun standing under a tree.
He motioned me away and moved forward when I didn't put my camera away. Just at that moment, the boy arrived and it immediately became apparent that this was his son. "He's a good boy", I said and smiled, and so did they. With that, he lifted up the tape and motioned me to visit the tomb and take pictures of the tomb and the surrounding courtyard. Before looking inside, I paused to consider the beauty, silence and solemnity of the location. While I have always been impressed by the biblical sites I have visited such as Galilee, Corinth, Ephesus and Rome, the tomb of the apostle Philip moved me as much as any of the places I have visited.
Interesting Facts - Anyone visiting Pamukkale and Hierapolis should try to fit in a visit nearby Aphrodisias where the ruins of a major Roman city containing dozens of carved murals to Rome’s rulers and their gods are being uncovered.
How to Get There - There are numerous non-stop flights from Istanbul to the city of Denizli near Hierapolis each day on Turkish Airlines for less than $100 round trip and the flight takes about an hour so planning an overnight excursion to the city and then taking a shuttle to the site or to your hotel is an excellent alternative. We traveled to Hierapolis with a driver on Route E87 from Antalya and it took about three hours. It takes about three and half hours to reach the site from Bodrum on Route D330 and two and a half hours to get there from Kusadasi on Route E87.
Where to Stay - There is a nice boutique hotel called the Hotel Hal-Tur outside of Hierapolis which provided a panoramic view of the Pamukkale hot springs and Hierapolis ruins from the rooftop with comfortable rooms, a swimming pool, and an excellent breakfast for less than $100. One should not expect all the comforts of home in the rural town, however, as the nearby roosters and morning call to prayer from the mosque started our day at the springs nice and early.
Cost - Adult admission to the hot springs and the ruins of Hierapolis which includes the tomb of Apostle Philip is 60 Turkish Lira (approximately $8).. Young children under eight are free.