Longmen Grottoes – Luoyang, China
What is It - Along the majestic Yi River just south of Luoyang, China, there are many caves carved into the cliff face containing pagodas, stone tablets with inscriptions, and many statues of the Buddha and his devotees. This World Heritage site known as the Longmen Grottoes is a unique and spiritual destination that is well worth exploring for a day.
The Longmen Grottoes were sculpted mostly during the Tang dynasty from approximately 490 to 675 AD. They were carved into the cliffside on both sides of the river by thousands of workers. The site eventually included more than 2000 different caves which extend for more than a mile. While most caves contain small statues or tiny Buddhist images, the largest and most popular area is known as the Feng Xian Si Temple. It features a sitting 56-foot-high Buddha with tall statues of his disciples and bodhisattvas bound for enlightenment on either side. One way to appreciate the size of this special cave is to view it from across the river, but you can also climb a long row of wooden stars and gaze upon the images that once served as both moral inspiration and political symbols for the Tang Dynasty.
Another interesting feature of the Feng Xian Si Temple is a statue of a confident Buddha, who displays a Divine Pagoda in his hand, while stomping his foot onto a beast from the underworld in front of the fearsome demon Vajra. Other people are drawn to the Lotus Flower Grotto which contains one large lotus flower carved into the roof of the cave. The messages expressed in these carvings and temples may be difficult to interpret but the majesty of the site tells a story that leaves a lasting impression.
Interesting Facts – Most historians believe that Buddhism entered China gradually over the centuries through trade routes leading from Central Asia and Southeast Asia. However, tradition and some locals in Luoyang insist that a Hang dynasty emperor sent emissaries to India in the 1st century who returned with Buddhist texts which were then deposited in a temple near Luoyang. In any event, the religion grew and coexisted with Daoism and Confucianism until a 9th century emperor launched a great persecution of its monks and temples.
How to Get Here - Until recently, Luoyang was rarely visited by western tourists because the city is a long distance from most major cities. But China’s high-speed train system has now made it possible to visit the Grottoes on a long day trip from Xi’an, Zhengzhou or even Beijing. Domestic flights to Luoyang occur several times daily from major cities such as Shanghai and Beijing.
When to Go – Luoyang’s weather can be hot from March to October and it is often rainy during the summer months with little shade, so come prepared. Locals often bring an umbrella to shield the sun when climbing up the stairs to see certain caves or walking along the river. A spring or early fall trip is likely to provide the most comfortable weather.
Cost- A full day group tour of the Grottoes from Luoyang will likely cost between $100 and $150 per person. Another alternative is to take a taxi there from the city and pay the admission fee which would cost roughly $40 or $50 per person. Some people combine a day trip to the Grottoes with a stay in Xi’an to visit to the Terra Cotta warriors. We were able to visit the site several years ago by high speed train with the assistance of our excellent guide Bryan Bai Chen from Xi’an.