What is It – Ancient empires including the Assyrian, Greek, Persian, Lycian, and Roman built cities across the landscape of what is now modern Turkey. Ruins of several dozen sites have been painstakingly excavated since the late 1800s by archeologists from Great Britain, Germany, France, Italy, the United States and Turkey, and sometimes artifacts were plundered to fill the halls of museums across the world or be sold to private collectors. In the 21st century, ancient cities remain a popular attraction in Turkey for historians and tourists, but tour groups focus on the most popular and conveniently located places in western Turkey such as Ephesus, Pamukkale, Myra, Pergamon and Troy.

One impressive site that is often overlooked is the ruins at Aphrodisias which have been   excavated and studied with greater intensity over the past three decades. The ruins are in the fertile valley of the Meander River with views of the nearby Akdag Mountains but getting there requires a 60-minute roundtrip detour from the main road from Kusadasi to Pamukkale. Once people arrive, they are surprised to find an amazing complex to walk around with few visitors for several hours. It contains unique structures from the Greco-Roman world and a museum with hundreds of statues, friezes, sculpted panels, and sarcophagi on display.

Aphrodisias was established during late Hellenistic period. By 39 BC it had grown into a destination for the temple worship of the Greek goddess Aphrodite who was the equivalent of the Roman goddess Venus. Aphrodisias also had an extensive marble industry and a famous school of sculpture. However, it was Roman politics that turned the city into a prosperous center for trade, culture, and artistry from that time until to the 5th century AD. The city had been loyal to Octavian and Mark Antony during the Roman civil war that followed the assassination of Julius Caesar and suffered at the hands of their enemies. In response, the victorious Octavian who later became known as Emperor Augustus Caesar arranged for a Senate decree granting the city freedom from direct Roman administration, immunity from Roman taxes, and asylum rights from prosecution. These special privileges were reconfirmed many times over the next three hundred years by the Senate and succeeding emperors. In addition, the city attracted powerful and well-connected Roman benefactors who contributed to civic life and construction projects.

Interesting Things to See There -  There are many interesting things to see at Aphrodisias, but the most important ones are the following sites:

* Tetrapylon – The Tetrapylon is a decorative gateway to the city that is often photographed because of its unusual design. It consists of four rows of columns with four Corinthian pillars in each row. They support a roof structure with lavishly decorated carvings along the top. Most of the gateway has been reconstructed and it evokes the majesty and beauty that must have greeted visitors to the city during its heyday.

* Theatre - The southern part of the city contains a large hill which may have been an acropolis before the Roman era. Around 28 BC, the city excavated the eastern slope of the hill and built a large theatre there. The theater was expanded over the years and eventually included twenty-seven rows of seats and room for 7,000 spectators. The theater included a stage, an orchestra area, and an elaborate three-story marble facade behind the stage where statues were displayed, and support operations were located. The location of the theater provided the audience with excellent views of the city below and the distant mountains. 

* Stadium - The stadium built along the city’s northern wall is one of the largest and best preserved in the entire Mediterranean. It had the capacity to seat almost 30,000 spectators above an oval field that was sixty-six yards wide and three hundred yards long with a single entrance through a tunnel at one end. Remnants on the site suggest that a sunscreen for patrons covered the seats. In addition, there was a special box for dignitaries in the middle of the field and inscriptions chiseled into the marble seats show that some areas were reserved for wealthy patrons. Originally built for athletic contests such as wrestling, boxing, races and other competitions, the stadium later hosted animal hunts and gladiatorial events during Roman times. 

* Sebasteion – One unique feature of Aphrodisias is the reconstructed complex known as the Sebasteion built between 20 and 60 AD. This elaborate structure was both a temple and a museum of sorts which was built by two wealthy families and dedicated to the worship of the deified emperor Augustus Caesar, his Julio-Claudian successors, and various gods and myths revered by the Romans. The building consisted of two facades covered by a roof with a processional avenue in the middle. Each of the facades was three stories high and had “picture-walls” which displayed two hundred carved marble reliefs. Eighty of these carvings have been recovered. The displays tell the story of the Roman empire and its beliefs at that time. They depict Roman emperors from Augustus to Nero, scenes from imperial Rome, Greek myths, the goddess Aphrodite, and military victories of the empire. One interesting group of murals featured caricatures of the numerous peoples conquered by Rome such as the Dacians, the Britons, the Judeans and the Gauls. 

* Park and Pool – Another interesting feature of Aphrodisias is a 3.7-acre public park and pool. Until recently, archeologists thought this area was an agora used for trade and commerce, but later excavations and research revealed the existence of a marble swimming pool. The pool was almost two hundred yards long and thirty yards wide. It featured marble benches, gardens, and shade trees that the public used for relaxation, board games, and swimming. 

* Temple of Aphrodite – There are scant remains of the important Temple of Aphrodite. The temple was built around 130 BC and served as a place of worship and pilgrimage site for the goddess’ followers. An estimated forty Ionic style columns supported the large building but only fourteen pillars remain standing today above a few Hellenistic mosaics. The site once housed a large statue of Aphrodite, sacred areas for use by the male priests, and rooms for worshipers. In the 5th century AD, a Christian church replaced the temple and the temple’s pagan features were replaced or destroyed. 

* Museum – There is a modern, air-conditioned museum inside the gates at Aphrodisias that contains the statues and artifacts collected during the excavation process over the past five decades. One section displays the mural carvings from the Sebasteion such as the famous sculpture of the crowning of Nero as Rome’s emperor by his mother Agrippina. Other halls in the museum present sculptures, sarcophagus, and ceramics that were produced in the city’s workshops during Roman and early Byzantine eras. 

Interesting Facts – Aphrodisias initially survived the changes taking place in the Roman empire in the 4th century AD. Despite conflict between Christianity and paganism in the region and the subdivision of the Roman empire, the renamed city of Caria remained prosperous as part of the Eastern Roman Empire centered in Byzantium. However, the massive earthquakes which struck the area between 350 and 360 AD destroyed buildings and changed the intricate water supply of the city causing flooding and other problems. The recovery process was long and succeeding generations suffered from plagues, invasion from the east, religious strife, and finally another crippling earthquake in the early 7th century. The glory days of Aphrodisias were now long gone and the city’s decline became permanent over the next few centuries.

When to Go There -  The best times to enjoy the archeological site of Aphrodisias is mid-March to May and mid-September to November. During these months, temperatures are comfortably in the 60s and 70s during the day. From June to August, however, the temperature can be quite hot and the land at the site turns brown and dusty. Winter days can be crisp, and rain is more likely from December to February so check the forecasts if visiting during those months. 

How to Get There - Aphrodisias is a 2-hour drive from Denizli airport near Pamukkale, a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the airport at Izmir, a two-hour drive from the cruise terminal at Kusadasi, and a three-hour drive from the airport at Dalaman on the Turquoise Coast. All these airports are served by Turkish Airlines from Istanbul. Arranging a driving service or a private tour to the site is highly recommended.

Cost -  Aphrodisias is usually open from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. during the summer for an admission fee of less than $10 per person. The museum is closed on Mondays and the site closes earlier during the winter.